The unit of currency is the Jamaica dollar (J$). The U.S. dollar is commonly accepted throughout the island, as are most major credit cards (except for street purchases). However, we recommend carrying Jamaican dollars for purchases from street vendors, and for tips, beach fees and other incidentals. When you exchange currency, keep your receipt so that you can reconvert your cash on departure.

Banks or the numerous exchange bureaus, called FX traders, are the best places to exchange currency. There are full-service banks in almost every town and some small villages.

All arriving air and cruise passengers must pay a tourism-enhancement fee of US$10 per air traveler and US$2 per cruise passenger. This fee, which is in addition to the US$16 departure tax, is rolled into air and cruise ticket prices. An accommodations tax of 6.24%-15% is added to hotel bills.

Tip 10%-15% in restaurants, unless a service charge has already been added to the bill. Some locals may expect a tip for giving information or other assistance.

Our favorite time (and everyone else's) is November-April—Jamaica can be very crowded then. The temperature is fairly stable year-round, so it's possible to visit in other months as well. Winter coastal-area day temperatures are in the 70s-80s F/23-32 C. June-September is usually in the 80s-90s F/30-35 C. Nights tend to be 5-10 F/3-5 C degrees cooler everywhere. Temperatures in the hills and mountains are usually cooler than on the coasts—take a sweater for nights. Kingston, on the leeward (southern) side of the island, is drier, hotter and generally more uncomfortable than the windward (northern) shore. Always be prepared for rain showers in the Blue Mountains. The hottest time is July-October, when the humidity, heat and hurricane possibilities are the highest. Most rain falls May-October, but even then, it generally comes in brief showers and seldom ruins anyone's vacation. Hurricane season is June-November.

Lightweight tropical clothing is preferable, with a shawl or light jacket for cool evenings. Beachwear is appropriate only at the beach. You should wear a cover-up when strolling in town (men, too). Even the most casual restaurants expect shoes and a shirt, except those on the beach, where button-down and barefoot is the rule. Appropriate dinner dress is Caribbean chic. Formal resort restaurants require men to wear a jacket and tie. Be sure to take comfortable walking shoes for sightseeing.

Internet access is readily available in the bigger resorts. There are Internet cafes at which ADSL access is available for a fee. Wireless access is also available in some areas.

Mail takes about two weeks to destinations throughout North America. For bigger packages, a carrier service is highly recommended.

Newspapers in Jamaica include The Jamaica Observer, The Gleaner, The North Coast Times and The Western Mirror. The established guide is Destination Jamaica. Information is readily available from the Tourism Product Development Company and Jamaica Tourist Board offices in resort towns.

Most every hotel provides local and international call service. Pay phones are not highly visible and use only phone cards. If you are dialing outside a parish, a 1 has to be added before the number; otherwise it is seven-digit dialing. Phone coverage is good, and there are several providers.

Those who plan to travel around the island will have the following options: renting a car (which can be expensive), hiring a car and driver (also expensive), taking minibuses (cheap but difficult) and taking full- and half-day sightseeing tours. Licensed taxis are the best option for local transportation. Guests at all-inclusive resorts will generally have their transfers to and from the airport taken care of but will often have to pay extra for sightseeing excursions away from the resort.

Jamaica has two international airports. Montego Bay's Sir Donald Sangster International Airport (MBJ) is located 2 mi/3 km north of downtown. Phone 876-952-3124. http://www.mbjairport.com.

Kingston's Norman Manley International Airport (KIN) is located 11 mi/18 km south of the city. Phone 876-924-8452. http://www.manley-airport.com.jm.

International Airlink offers daily flights between major Jamaican towns. Taxis and rental cars are available at both international airports.

Buses (usually minivans) provide transportation between cities in Jamaica. Prices are very reasonable, but expect cramped quarters, a loose schedule and daredevil driving: The buses usually only depart after they've taken on a full load. Though they're by no means a luxurious way to get around, the buses will put you into contact with Jamaicans, and they can be fun if not always comfortable. But unless you're an adventurous or well-seasoned traveler, you may want to use other modes of transport.

Rental cars tend to be expensive compared with prices in the U.S., and there's a 15% government tax. You must be at least 25 years old and have a valid driver's license. Definitely reserve in advance during peak season, but that may not be enough to guarantee wheels: Supplies can run short. Make sure that the license number on your contract matches the one on your car—there have been incidents of plate switching.

Driving is on the left. Roundabouts at major intersections can be confusing: Yield to all traffic coming from your right. Local drivers are aggressive and freewheeling, with little regard for official speed limits. (You will also have to watch for poorly marked construction zones, pedestrians, bicyclists and livestock.) Coast roads are generally good, but potholes lie in wait. Interior roads can't be counted on—even if they are shown on maps. Exceptions are the main roads west through Mandeville and north across the island to Ocho Rios, which are always maintained. Service stations are open daily. Most accept only cash, though some accept credit and debit cards.

Be cautious at street corners and traffic lights, where beggars, peddlers and windshield washers will approach you. Be sure the windows and doors are locked to avoid possible robbery or carjacking.

Montego Bay and Ocho Rios are popular stops for cruise lines, and some smaller ships call at Port Antonio.

Taxis are the most efficient way to get around most towns and can be hired for longer trips and tours. Before you get in, make sure the vehicle is a licensed, insured taxi: These have red-and-white plates with the letters PP (private passenger) before the numbers. Among the more reputable cabs are those operated by the Jamaica Union of Travellers Association (JUTA). Other cabs, known as "robots," may also offer you a ride. They are illegal operators, and most have no insurance—it's best to avoid them.

None of the taxis are metered, so always agree on a fare, the currency to be used and the length of trip before getting in. It is common for drivers to drop you off at an attraction and return for you later. They are reliable about returning, but don't pay the full fare until the return trip. A tip of 10%-15% is appreciated for good service.

Tourist Offices

Jamaica: Jamaican Tourist Board, 64 Knutsford Blvd., Kingston 5 (mail address: P.O. Box 360, Kingston 5, Jamaica). Phone 876-929-9200. Fax 876-929-9375. http://www.visitjamaica.com. There are also offices in Montego Bay, Negril, Ocho Rios and Port Antonio.

Canada: Jamaican Tourist Board, 303 Eglington Ave. E., Suite 200, Toronto, ON M4P 1L3. Phone 416-482-7850. Fax 416-482-1730.

U.S.: Jamaican Tourist Board, 5201 Blue Lagoon Drive, Suite 670, Miami, Florida 33126. Phone 305-665-0557. Toll-free 800-233-4582. Fax 305-666-7239. There are also offices in Chicago and Los Angeles.

Jamaica Embassies

Canada: Jamaica High Commission, 275 Slater St., Suite 800, Ottawa, ON K1P 5H9. Phone 613-233-9311. Fax 613-233-0611. http://www.jhcottawa.ca. There are consulates in Montreal, Edmonton, Winnipeg and Vancouver.

U.S.: Embassy of Jamaica, 1520 New Hampshire Ave., N.W., Washington, DC 20036. Phone 202-452-0660. Fax 202-452-0081. http://www.embassyofjamaica.org. There are also consulates in Chicago, Miami and New York.

Foreign Embassies serving Jamaica

Canada: Canadian High Commission, 3 W. Kings House Road, Kingston 10 (mail address: P.O. Box 1500, Kingston 10). Phone 876-926-1500. Fax 876-511-3494. There is also a consulate in Montego Bay.

U.S.: U.S. Embassy, 142 Old Hope Road, Kingston 6. Phone 976-702-6000. http://usembassy.state.gov/kingston. There is also a consular agency in Montego Bay.

The Harder They Come by Michael Thelwell (Grove Press). A novel that expands upon the story related in the popular film, it chronicles the rise and fall of an aspiring Jamaican singer who becomes an outlaw.

Jamaica Farewell by Morris Cargill. Recollections of growing up in Jamaica in the 1920s and '30s, with insight into the political and economic history of the island.

Reggae Bloodlines: In Search of the Music and Culture of Jamaica by Stephen T. Davis and Peter Simon (Anchor Press/Doubleday).

The Power Game by Perry Henzell (Hastings House). Based on true-life events, this sordid tale of ambition, corruption, betrayal and violence in 1970s Jamaica is essential reading for understanding the undercurrents of island politics.