The best way to see this 800-year-old city on the River Lee (and about 140 mi/225 km by road southwest of Dublin) is on a walking tour, booked through the Cork Tourist Office. Or, if you're hoofing it on your own, begin with an overall view of Cork from Patrick's Hill. From there, head to the Opera House, hear the bells of St. Ann Shandon Church and see St. Finbarr's Cathedral. Blackrock Castle and the University College also merit a visit. A 35-minute tour of Cork City Gaol, with cells and lifelike figures to re-create the appalling conditions in which 19th-century inmates lived, is a moving and memorable experience.
Visitors should be aware that the center of Cork like many cities in the U.K. and Ireland, appears rather rough at night. Just exercise more caution then and avoid the young, local, wildlife.
Short excursions can be made to Blarney Castle, which is just a few miles/kilometers northwest of Cork (in the woods of Muskerry). The castle is home to the Blarney Stone, which is said to give the gift of gab to all who kiss it. Long ago, a witch told a shy, tongue-tied lord of the castle that his fear of public speaking would vanish if he kissed the stone: According to legend, he did so and became a great orator. Today thousands of tourists take their lives in their hands and lean out over the castle walls to repeat the feat. After a romantic encounter with the stone, visit the lovely garden and nearby Blarney House (Victorian decor and chandeliers made from Waterford crystal). You can see Blarney while traveling between Cork and Killarney or as a day trip from Cork: The castle and its views make it very worthwhile. Get there early to avoid the crowds and dress casually—depending upon the weather, Blarney Stone-kissing can be a damp, dirty business.
Also near Cork are the wildlife park, arboretum and golf course at Fota Island (7 mi/11 km from Cork). Longer trips can be made to Clear Island (good for hiking and bird-watching—the ferry ride alone is worth the trip). We recommend spending at least two days in Cork.
About 15 mi/25 km south of Cork, Kinsale—the birthplace of William Penn (founder of the U.S. state of Pennsylvania)—used to depend on fishing for its livelihood. Today, it's a chic little tourist stop whose picturesque harbor is filled with yachts flying European flags. In town, see the old fort, play at the nine-hole golf course or dine at any of several very good restaurants—Kinsale is one of Ireland's gourmet hot spots thanks to its fresh seafood and international chefs. About 10 mi/16 km away are some dramatic cliffs called the Old Head of Kinsale. Just off the coast is the spot where the passenger liner Lusitania was torpedoed by a German U-boat in 1915, an event that helped prompt the U.S. to enter World War I. Kinsale has a somber monument marking the event. http://www.kinsale.ie.
Youghal (pronounced yawl) is a coastal town east of Cork with handsome old houses and castles. John Huston's screen version of Moby Dick, starring Gregory Peck, was filmed there. You can visit the Clock Gate and St. Mary's Church and shop for pottery, carpets and lace. The town also claims to be the home of Ireland's first potato: Sir Walter Raleigh, colonizer and tobacco proponent, was the town's mayor in 1588 and is believed to have imported the country's first potato plants from South America. http://www.youghal.ie.
