Burkina Faso Vacation Guide

The local currency is the West African CFA (XOF), used throughout French West Africa. It is linked directly to the euro. This is still a predominantly cash society. Money and traveler's checks (with passport and receipts) can be easily changed at major banks in the big cities, but you may have problems changing anything other than euros in smaller towns. Credit cards (Visa more than MasterCard) are only accepted in high-end establishments. ATMs are now found at the major banks, but may not always accept foreign cards.

Monday-Friday 8 am-noon.

There is 18% value-added tax on most luxury sales (items purchased in stores, as opposed to local markets and stalls) and accommodations. This tax is normally included in the price quoted, but check in stores for signs that give prices "hors taxe" ("without tax") and "TTC" ("Tout taxe compris" or "all taxes included").

A service charge is normally included in the bill. If not, tip 10%-15%. If you've bargained for a taxi fare, don't tip extra.

The best time to visit is either November-March (the "cool," dry, windy season) or June-October (the warm, rainy season). Anyone with allergies will want to avoid the harmattan winds of December-February that turn the country into a dust bowl. Many locals wear face masks to keep from inhaling the thick, red dust. The rainy season can be inconvenient if you get caught in a severe downpour. Roads are washed away, and power lines go out regularly during this season, but it's also cooler then, and the rains can be quite beautiful and dramatic. Fortunately, even the strongest downpours tend to blow over in a few hours. Avoid Burkina Faso late March-May, the hot, dry season when even locals complain of the weather—104 F/40 C in the shade.

Loose, lightweight cotton clothes are generally best, not only for comfort, but also for a degree of culturally sensitive modesty. Covering the legs above the knee will also avoid giving unnecessary offense. Long sleeves and trousers (especially in the evenings) provide some protection from mosquitoes.

Burkinabe make the most of what they have, appearing clean and smart even on ordinary occasions. Westerners, by contrast, often appear scruffy. Certainly, any official or business meeting requires appropriate smartness of dress.

Cybercafes are increasingly prevalent in the main towns. Sometimes, if you ask nicely, even where there is no cybercafe, the local "telecentre" may let you unplug its phone and plug in your laptop to access the Internet. Speed is slow, and connections can be frustrating, apart from in the main cities, where broadband is very slowly gaining access. The main hotels do have Internet access, but even the top ones do not yet have Wi-Fi.

The state post office is usually slow, and certainly not cheap. It is generally reliable for normal letters and packages, but for important or expensive shipments, definitely use an independent shipper.

There are three main daily papers in French: Sidwaya, the government-run paper, and two independent ones, Le Pays and L'Observateur. International newspapers in French, and occasionally English, can be found in the upmarket newsagents in the big cities, or sometimes even being hawked on the streets of Ouagadougou.

The landline phone system in Burkina is reasonable. Most towns have several "telecentres," from which you can make national or international calls. The calls are metered, and you pay at the end, using local currency. For directory assistance, ring 120.

There are also three main mobile-phone networks expanding rapidly to cover the main towns, and prepaid cards can be bought easily. In rural areas, however, telephone coverage of any form is very scarce.

Ouagadougou Airport (OUA) is 5 mi/8 km from the center of town and well-served by local taxis. The bus services from neighboring countries have improved dramatically over the last few years, along with improvements to many of the road surfaces and a reduction in border difficulties. Burkina officials are generally very friendly, but occasional hassles may occur either side of the border.

One train line connects Ouagadougou and Bobo and continues from Bobo to Abidjan, Cote d'Ivoire—a 24-hour trip that would definitely require first-class accommodations. However, travel to Cote d'Ivoire is discouraged because of the unstable situation there. The train is more dangerous (because of thieves), expensive and slower than the deluxe motor coaches that travel regularly between Bobo and Ouaga (they can be booked from a number of companies in either city). For departure times, check with your hotel when you arrive.

Adequate roads connect major areas of the country, and there are reliable bus services to most towns. Self-drive and chauffeured rental cars (we prefer the latter) are good ways to see the country, but be aware that many unpaved roads become impassable during the June-October rainy season. Also, vehicle break-ins (never leave valuables in your car) are a common problem. Don't travel at night, as donkey carts, bicycles and occasional bandits make it dangerous.

The cheaper alternative to buses, and often going to remoter areas not served by the bus companies, is the long-distance bush taxi (taxi brousse). This tends to be a crowded minibus, or an old Peugeot station wagon shared by nine passengers: two in the front seat, four in the middle and three in a makeshift back seat. This arrangement can be uncomfortable and trying, especially on hot days or long trips. A small tip should secure a slightly more comfortable front seat—though watch out for the stick shift. In the city, taxis are inexpensive, but be sure to settle your fare before getting into a cab.

Tourist Offices

Burkina Faso: Office National du Tourisme Burkinabe, Ouagadougou 01. Phone 226-5031-1959. Fax 226-5031-4434 http://www.ontb.bf.

Burkina Faso does not have tourist offices in Canada or the U.S.

Burkina Faso Embassies

Canada: Embassy of Burkina Faso, 48 Range Road, Ottawa, ON K1N 8J4. Phone 613-238-4796. Fax 613-238-3812. http://www.ambaburkina-canada.org.

U.S.: Embassy of Burkina Faso, 2340 Massachusetts Ave. N.W., Washington, DC 20008. Phone 202-332-5577. http://www.burkinaembassy-usa.org.

Foreign Embassies in Burkina Faso

Canadian Embassy, Agostino Neto Street, 01 BP 548, Ouagadougou. Phone 226-5031-1894. Fax 226-5031-1900. http://www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/burkina_faso.

U.S. Embassy, Avenue John F. Kennedy, 01 BP35, Ouagadougou. Phone 226-5030-6723. Fax 226-226-5031-2368. http://usembassy.state.gov/posts/uv1/wwwhmain.html.

Burkina Faso Today by Jean-Claude Klotchkoff (in French or English, Les Editions du Jaguar, 57bis, Rue d'Auteuil, 75016 Paris, France).