Although nearly all of Egypt is desert, the small part that isn't—the valley of the Nile River—is vital to the nation (95% of the population lives within a few miles/kilometers of the Nile's banks). Most tours of Egypt—except to desert oases—whether by cruise, train, bus or a private car, never stray too far from the river's shores. Egypt is the largest country in the Arab world, and among African nations, is second in population only to Nigeria (Cairo, the continent's most populous city, has 10 million people).
Egypt has been a nation for much longer than most. Menes, the first pharaoh, united Upper and Lower Egypt in 3050 BC, creating a country whose legacy is unmatched in recorded history. Elaborate tombs were designed, magnificent pyramids constructed, and a vast and impressive pantheon of deities was honored in huge temples. Hieroglyphs were etched in stone, detailing everything from the lives of the gods to the lives of the lowest slaves. The Nile was harnessed for irrigation. By any standard, this dynastic society was very successful.
Eventually, however, it fell to outside influences. Conquest of the country by Alexander the Great in 332 BC led to three centuries of Greek rule, followed by a brief but significant period of Roman rule. Arab invaders, who conquered Egypt and introduced Islam around AD 640, have had the most lasting influence. Others who left their mark include the Ottoman Turks, the French and the British. Egypt won nominal independence from Britain in 1922. The subsequent monarchy came to an end in 1953 with the overthrow of King Farouk. The following year, Gamel Abdel Nasser came to power and ruled with tremendous popular support for 14 years. He was succeeded by Anwar Sadat, who, through both war and diplomacy, established peace with neighboring Israel. His efforts came with a high price: Sadat was assassinated in 1981. The current president, Hosni Mubarak, has been in power ever since.
Hosni Mubarak began his fifth six-year term as president in 2005, after a controversial election that had low voter turnout. Candidates aligned with the outlawed, often militant Muslim Brotherhood (religious political parties are banned) won a stunning 76 seats in the national parliament, the Majlis. This signals to some observers that Egypt could be moving closer to Islamic fundamentalist rule in coming years. The emergence of the Kifaya (Enough!) political movement (also known as the Egyptian National Movement for Change) also indicates that there is increasing opposition to the Mubarak regime and its practices.
Legal and economic reforms during the 1990s have led to increased foreign investment and economic expansion. A rapidly growing population (the largest in the Arab world) continues to be a major factor in the Egyptian economy.
Egypt's main attractions include the pyramids and the Sphinx at Giza, the Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens near Luxor, Cairo, ancient temples, the Egyptian Antiquities Museum, Nile cruises, St. Catherine's monastery, Coptic churches, shopping, desert culture and scuba diving on the Red Sea.
Nearly everyone will enjoy seeing the sights of Egypt. Travelers should be aware that there are areas of the country that are quite poor and some places where standards of sanitation aren't the highest in the world. Some visitors may be bothered by the heat (even during winter), and others may find the amount of walking necessary to see the various temples to be a physical strain. However, if a visit is properly paced for the age of the traveler, there shouldn't be problems. All things considered, Egypt's rewards far outweigh its disadvantages.
The scars on the face of the Sphinx are not due solely to erosion—the monument was used for target practice by conquering Ottoman soldiers, French troops or both—depending on whose story you believe.
Egypt's best-kept secret is janzabil, the hot, spicy ginger drink that the Quran calls "the promise of paradise." It's the perfect lung and food tract cleanser for murky urban air and unfamiliar food. All the sidewalk coffee and shisha (tobacco) shops have it and will be surprised and delighted when you order it.
Expect to see security checks at government buildings and museums. You will often be asked to leave your camera at the security desk.
Bluish crosses tattooed on the hands or wrists of Egyptians indicate that they are Christians.
Friday is the day of worship, when most things are closed at least in the morning (shops in tourist areas may be open). Many stores are closed during prayer hours or all day on Friday, and most Coptic stores are closed on Sunday.
Egypt does not mind the presence of an Israeli visa in your passport (most other Arab countries do). Although Israel cooperates with tourists planning to visit other Arab countries by stamping visas outside the passport, be aware that when traveling overland between Egypt and Israel, your Egyptian exit visa will indicate you crossed at Taba. Immigration officers in other Arab countries may know that the only place to go from Taba is Israel and may refuse to issue visas in passports with a Taba stamp.