Trinidad is alluring, a constant surprise to first-time guests, but it's not just another carbon-copy paradise. Culturally diverse, the island is a bouillabaisse of more than 40 nationalities and ethnic groups, the largest of which are of East Indian and African descent (each accounting for about 40% of the population). The medley is reflected in everything from food, design and language to music, dance and humor. At Carnival time, Trinidad throws the grandest, wildest party in the Caribbean. Divali, the Hindu festival of lights in October, draws big crowds, as do many other festivities throughout the year associated with Trinidad's various cultural and religious groups.
Potpourri
As famous as Trinidad is for the steel drum, the island is also the birthplace of calypso, another lively style of music associated with the tropics. Typically, calypso features a fast beat and witty lyrics that express the singers' opinions and amusing observations—sometimes political, sometimes bawdy, sometimes both. In fact, calypso songs have been credited with making or breaking politicians.
In 1824, J.G.B. Siegert, a Prussian physician, created a blend of herbs and spices to combat stomach ailments. The recipe for the now-famous Angostura Bitters is so secret that five people have memorized five portions of the recipe and are not allowed to interact with each other. It is still produced on Trinidad.
Every street in Trinidad has two names—the ones on the maps sold to visitors to the islands and the ones on the street signs.
Trinidad was once part of the South American continent. For this reason, it has plants and wildlife not found on other Caribbean islands and, together with the many Caribbean species present there, accounts for the richest flora and fauna of any set of islands in the Caribbean.
Fans of famed Trini author V.S. Naipaul can see his tidy, two-story boyhood home at 26 Nepaul St. (at the corner of Western Main Road), St. James (near Port of Spain).
Beaches
The sheltered beach at Maracas Bay on the north coast is one of the best beaches on Trinidad. About 20 mi/32 km (or a US$24 taxi ride one way) from Port of Spain, it is framed by green hills and palm trees. Though popular, it's not overdeveloped. (Don't swim too far away from shore—the undertow is dangerous.) While you're there, don't miss a taste of highly seasoned shark-and-bake, a Maracas specialty—it's shark meat cooked in light batter and sandwiched between a fluffy flour pastry called bake. Neighboring Tyrico Bay has exciting surf, but beware of the undertow and, especially in the wet season, sand flies. A few miles/kilometers along the road from the more crowded Maracas is the quiet Las Cuevas beach, one of our favorites. A beachside restaurant serves fish and wild game.
There are also several nice beaches at Chaguaramas Bay and Scotland Bay that have silky sand and good swimming. From Chaguaramas, you can take a boat across Marie Elba Bay to the island of Monos, owned by the family with the secret formula for Angostura Bitters. The island is popular with locals as a place to lounge on the beach or by a pool. Taxi fare from Port of Spain to Chaguaramas is about US$25 one way. A maxi taxi (yellow band) will cost approximately US$1 to US$2
For secure and professional tours, guides or taxis, call the Trinidad and Tobago Tourist Transport Association on Wrightson Road, Port of Spain. Phone 868-623-4419.
Bird Watching
Trinidad possesses a wild menu of topographical features—tropical savannah, rain forest, mangrove swamp, beach, river and forest, making it a paradise for wildlife—and has several great spots for birders. One is the Asa Wright Nature Centre on the north coast; another is the Caroni Bird Sanctuary. About 40 mi/65 km south of Port of Spain is La Brea, the home of Pitch Lake, or Black Gold, a huge pitch-black lake of natural-asphalt tar—the largest natural mine of its kind in the world. The lake, according to legend, was created to punish a village for stealing the hummingbird's brilliant plumage. The bird-watching there is excellent. At last count, Trinidad is home to more than 400 bird varieties, more than any other island in the Caribbean.
Boating & Sailing
This is a local passion. Catch a ride in town to the Trinidad Yacht Club at Bayshore or head northwest out of town to the Yachting Association Marina at Chaguaramas. Elton Pouchet, who plays a mean set of pans (steel drums), arranges trips to the offshore islands, which run about US$48 for two people. Phone 868-622-8974.
Although Trinidad is not known for windsurfing, boards and other watersports equipment are available from the marina and beach at Chaguaramas, as well as at other popular beaches. Expect to pay about US$15-$25 for half a day, depending on the quality of the board and the time of year. For local expertise, contact Wayne Graham (phone 868-628-8908); he heads the Windsurfing Association of Trinidad & Tobago.
Fishing
Some of the best fishing is off the Chaguaramas Peninsula. Check on the beach for fishermen or try the Caridoc Marina. Phone 868-634-4127. Expect to pay about US$65 an hour to fish from a boat. Call the experts at the Trinidad and Tobago Game Fishing Association for updates on vessels, prices, fish and geography. Phone 868-624-5304.
Golf
There are six golf courses on Trinidad, and the best views are from the nine-hole public golf course at Chaguaramas at the foot of cascading Edith Falls (phone 868-634-4349). North of Port of Spain, just beyond Maraval, is the 18-hole St. Andrews Golf Course at Moka (phone 868-629-8464). Set in a valley and lined with orange trees, the course is pleasantly shaded from the hot Caribbean sun by surrounding hills, and the clubhouse offers an idyllic terrace surrounded by bougainvilleas and banana palms. Locals often refer to St. Andrew's as the Moka Golf Course.
Hiking & Walking
The Northern Range, northeast of Port of Spain, has three hiking areas for nature lovers and birding fans: the Aripo Savannah, the Aripo Valley and the Arena Forest. The three areas are close together; expect to pay about US$60-$70 for a taxi one way plus waiting time. You might be better off including these as part of a half-day or full-day tour.
Closer to town, enjoy the birds along the hiking trails of the Pax Guesthouse on the grounds of the Mount St. Benedict Monastery at Tunapuna, about US$25 by taxi from Port of Spain. Call ahead to book breakfast or lunch in the guest lodge with dining-room views over the Caroni Plains. This is home to the oldest afternoon tea service in Trinidad and was a favorite haunt of singing soldiers during World War II. Phone 868-662-4084.
Horseback Riding
You can ride horses at Fort George in the hills northwest of the city. You can book the Fort George rides at the tourist-information desk at the cruise-ship terminal (about US$25 an hour or US$45 for a half-day). Solo riding is not considered safe, so take the group trek. Destinations and durations change daily. Pickup is not available, but Fort George is only about 20 minutes (about US$9 by taxi) from Port of Spain.
Scuba & Snorkeling
Venezuela's Orinoco River flows into the Atlantic Ocean south of Trinidad, and its nutrients feed a varied population of marine life. Many varieties of coral and hundreds of different species of fish can be seen in the waters around the island. (Manta rays and leatherback turtles are among the island's more unusual interlopers.) Unfortunately, the undertows off many of Trinidad's beaches make snorkeling and diving from the beach too risky. The best place to snorkel and dive is between Trinidad and Tobago off the northwest peninsula in an area known as Dragon's Mouth. However, the currents are cold, so you may want to wear a wetsuit. Most tourist beaches and resorts have little shacks that rent snorkeling gear. Contact the tour board for names of dive shops and for prices.
You must be a certified diver and present your C card to rent equipment and go diving. However, you may find a supervised resort-course dive—check locally.
Tennis & Racquet Sports
Try the Trinidad Country Club at Maraval, about 5 mi/8 km outside of Port of Spain on Long Circular Road. Advance booking is essential. Phone 868-622-3470. The Hilton Hotel also has two championship tennis courts with lights for evening matches. Phone 868-624-3211.
Nightlife
Dancing is a national passion in Trinidad, so don't be shy about shaking your hips calypso-style if the mood strikes you. Good calypso joints in Port of Spain include the Mas Camp Pub for live calypso bands, at the corner of Ariapita Avenue and French Street, and Jenny's on the Boulevard (Cipriani), but get there early or you'll be dancing in the street. You can also dance at the Lush on Sirvan Road and at the Anchorage Club and Pier One in Chaguaramas. Live entertainment can be found nightly at Zen Entertainment Center on Kitt St. Head to the Hilton's Carnival Bar in Port of Spain if you are looking for something a little quieter. If you want to go to a lively restaurant and popular sports bar, try Trotters on Maraval Road. It's a huge restaurant, and the bar jumps (very crowded) every Friday.
Year-round, you can hear pan music at the hotels and every Friday night at the BP Renegades Pan Theater on Charlotte Street in Port of Spain. If your visit is close to Carnival, you will find bands practicing in the pan yards (and in calypso tents around the city) and costume making in the mas camps (headquarters of the masquerade bands).
Trinidad also has a rich culture of locally generated plays and concerts, including the works of Nobel Prize-winning playwright Derek Walcott. Be sure to check the local press for shows. Venues in the Port of Spain area include Little Carib Theater, Central Bank Auditorium, Queen's Hall and Under the Trees on St. Ann's Road. In San Fernando, the Naparima Bowl frequently holds performing-arts events.
Spectator Sports
The citizens of Trinidad are mad for cricket, and the country has produced some of the world's best players. Games are played year-round, ranging from local to internation competition. When the national team, the Windies, is playing, most radios are tuned to the match. Take a sun hat and a cold drink to Queen's Park Oval, just west of Queen's Park Savannah in Port of Spain. Joining the crowd of fans can be quite fun. Phone 868-622-2295 or 868-622-3787.
Shopping
Duty-free shops in the cruise-ship terminal sell everything from perfume to electronics. Prices can be more competitive in town, though, where you can also find numerous stores that offer duty-free shopping—just be sure to ask. If you're planning on making any substantial purchases, check discount-store prices at home before you leave so you can be sure if you're getting a deal or not: Trinidad is not considered a duty-free haven.
The main shopping area of Port of Spain is Frederick Street, known as the People's Mall. The fancy stores, such as Y. de Lima and Stecher's, are at Frederick's upper end, and street vendors selling crafts are at the lower end. Try excellent City Centre Mall with entrances on Frederick, Independence Square and Chacon Street. Farther along Queen Street is the fabric area, with great window displays and bargains on linens.
For an interesting mix of traditional and innovative crafts, try the shops around Independence Square. A crafts market on the eastern end of the square, known as The Drag, sells copper work, steel pans (even miniature ones that will fit in your purse), leather goods, batik clothing, straw hats and other island crafts, including hand-painted T-shirts. You will also find crafts at Tropical Treasures at the Hilton Hotel, Banwari Experience at the Cascadia Hotel in St Ann's, Les Soeur in the Long Circular Mall in St. James, and the Trinidad and Tobago Blind Welfare League on Duke Street.
If you've fallen in love with pan or calypso music, you can pick up a tape or CD from Rhyner's Record Shop at the Piarco International Airport. Crosby's Music Centre in St. James is also a particularly well-stocked record store. The Music Shak has two locations, one at the Aboutique Mall and the other at the Excellent City Centre. All are within walking distance of the cruise-ship terminal.
Street and beach vendors will bargain (use local currency to get the best price), but don't try it in the stores. Prices are usually listed in Trinidadian dollars, but U.S. dollars are occassionally accepted. Larger stores give roughly the same rate of exchange and take most major credit cards.
Don't purchase items made from turtle shell or black coral, which are protected by the government.
Shopping Hours: Monday-Friday 8 am-5:30 pm and Saturday 8 am-2 pm. Malls stay open later, generally until 8 pm. Don't always rely on posted times, however; some small shop hours follow the mood of the owner. Most shops are closed on Sunday.
Local Tours
There are several reputable tour operators in Port of Spain. Arguably one of the best for island tours is Sensational Tours & Transport, 47 Reservoir Road, La Pastora, Santa Cruz. Owner Gerald Nicholas knows the island like the back of his hand, and touring with him is like traveling with a knowledgeable friend. Phone 868-676-2937. Also good is Trinidad and Tobago Sightseeing Tours at 12 Western Main Road, St. James. Rates start at US$39 for a half-day tour. Phone 868-628-1051 or visit http://www.trintours.com.
Another option for the more adventure-oriented traveler is Wildways Caribbean Adventure Travel at Cascadia Hotel Complex, Ariapita Road, St. Anns. Tours include nature hikes in the rain forest, as well as kayaking, mountain-bike excursions and camping trips. Expect to pay about US$45 for a half-day tour. Phone 868-623-7332. http://www.wildways.org.
One of the newest ways to tour the island is the Public Transport Service Tour, led by outstanding facilitators aboard comfortable, air-conditioned buses. These tours truly unearth the hidden gems and stories behind Trinidad. Three distinctly different tours operate on Saturday and Sunday. Phone 868-623-7872.
Caribbean Discovery Tours is led by Stephen Broadbridge, one of Trinidad's most revered nature photographers and guides. Personalized treks are its specialty, and guides pride themselves on creating smiles on the faces of their patrons. 9B Fondes Amandes Road, St. Anns, Trinidad. Phone 868-620-1989. http://www.caribbeandiscoverytours.com.
Taxi drivers will take you on an island tour. They usually last six to eight hours and cost about US$160 for up to four people. (If you bargain, you can probably get it down to around US$120.)
Day Plans
To help you make the most of your time in Port of Spain and Trinidad, we've designed three different itineraries.Day Plans
PLAN AWalking Spree, Shopping Spree
Put on your walking shoes, leave your jewelry behind, secure your wallet and camera, and get an early start. Take a taxi to the St. Clair Avenue roundabout on Maraval Road, then walk along the western edge of Queen's Park Savannah before it gets too hot. There are great photo opportunities of the students arriving at Queen's Royal College and the coconut vendors setting up roadside tailgate stalls.
Stroll past the Magnificent Seven, a row of Edwardian-colonial mansions that include White Hall (the prime minister's office), and a turreted copy of a Scottish castle. Stop at the northern edge of the Savannah to tour the Botanic Gardens. Then it's on to the nearby Emperor Valley Zoo to see the island's indigenous creatures, such as a special species of caiman, four boa constrictor varieties and other compelling sights, including 47 species of snakes.
Take a lunch break at the luxurious Hilton Trinidad Hotel, which is shaped like an upside-down pyramid and has fabulous views of the city.
Culture vultures will want to swing by the small National Museum, which has local art, history, Carnival and oil exhibits (on the southeast corner of the savannah at Keate and Frederick). Frederick Street is the main shopping district downtown for gifts, local designer clothing and jewelry. Funkier shops are on nearby Charlotte Street, which also has fruit and vegetable stalls (be mindful of pickpockets). This is a good place to pick up some of the homemade pepper sauces or CDs of local music. At Woodford Square, stop at the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity and admire the elaborately carved hammer-beam roof. Head south on Chacon Street for an easy walk through the financial district.
PLAN B
A Day at the Beach
Pack your hat, sunblock and swimsuit and then pick up a picnic lunch before embarking on this trip to Chaguaramas, on the tip of the island's northwest peninsula (about a half-hour ride). Take a taxi from town and tell the driver you want to go slow and stop frequently to enjoy the coastal views. Have the driver drop you at Chaguaramas and then head down to the bay of the same name.
Laze on the sands awhile before taking a ride on a local pirogue (launch) to visit the Gasparee Caves on Gaspar Grande, one of the offshore islands. Have a picnic at the cave entrance (or try the seafood at the Lighthouse Restaurant in the Crews Inn back at Chaguaramas).
Work off lunch with a little windsurfing, snorkeling or boating at the Yachting Association Marina on Chaguaramas Beach, where you can get a taxi back to town.
PLAN C
The Nature Tour
Get an early start for this tour and don't forget a hat, sunblock, insect repellent, binoculars, comfortable walking shoes and a long-sleeve cover-up. Rent a car or hire a taxi and head inland, leaving Port of Spain on the Eastern Main Road toward Arima, the center of Carib-Indian culture.
At Arima, head north through some spectacular jungle landscapes (nutmeg, mahogany and cedar trees provide the shade) to the Asa Wright Nature Center. If you brought your binoculars, you can get close-up views of hundreds of exotic birds. But even if you didn't, there's plenty to see. Try to catch the 10 am tour, then have lunch at the lodge (call ahead for reservations).
After lunch, head to the Caroni Bird Sanctuary—part lagoon, part swamp—where bird-watching is fast and furious. If possible, take the afternoon boat tour to watch the flocks of scarlet ibis return home to roost at sunset.
On the return trip north to Port of Spain, you'll notice the road is lined with mosques and Hindu temples.
Dining Overview
Trinidad's cuisine spans traditional American and European fare but includes such classic West Indian dishes as souse and callaloo soup. For a different breakfast, try the local salt fish, tomato
chokra, or black pudding served with hot coconut-bake or hops bread. We like the fried
accra,
tannia cakes and boiled cassava. You'll also find curry dishes, spicy Creole cooking and excellent seafood. The crab curry and dumplings is superb, but we recommend you avoid oysters because of water pollution. Exotic fruits abound, including soursop and sapodillas—try ice cream with these flavors. Roti is a tasty dish of East Indian origin: curry stew, laden with hot pepper sauce, wrapped in roti skin (cooked dough). The heat on the street can get serious, so look for coconut vendors, especially around Independence Square, who lop off the top of a coconut, add a straw and peddle a cool, refreshing drink. You'll also find some U.S. fast-food restaurants, as well as some local knockoffs. Leisurely service is a trademark of the islands, so don't anticipate quick fare, even in a fast-food restaurant. Watch out for the locally made hot sauces—they are much more spicy than Tabasco sauce and can ruin a holiday if not treated with care. Also, there is a local fish called salmon, but this white-flesh fish is not to be confused with the red- or pink-flesh variety from North America.
Locals eat breakfast around 7-8:30 am; lunch is 11:30 am-1 pm; and dinner is usually sometime after 7 pm. Many restaurants are open 11 am-11 pm.
Expect to pay within these guidelines for a meal for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$21-$50; and $$$$ = more than US$50.
Personal Safety
Crime is a fact of life in Port of Spain, and you should exercise the same street smarts there that you would in any large city. Robberies are common, even in rural areas of the island. Seek safety in numbers and don't wander around after dark. Kidnappings are a problem in Trinidad, especially since the summer of 2002. These do not appear to be targeted at nonresidents, but you should be aware of the problem and take sensible precautions. Generally it is a good idea not to wear flashy jewelry or carry large sums of money. Also, don't travel in vehicles not marked as taxis.
Health
Trinidad's tap water is safe, but food from street vendors and hole-in-the-wall snack joints should be considered only if the merchants have a government-issued food-handler's permit. Snake bites are a rarity, but be aware that there are poisonous snakes—fer-de-lance, coral and bushmaster—in the countryside. Beware of the apple from the machineel tree and its sap—both are extremely poisonous. Portuguese man-of-wars, those translucent blobs with a slightly blue tint that can be seen on beaches or floating in the water, can produce a very bad sting. Seek medical assistance if you are stung by one. Sea-urchin spines are another regular problem beachside; if you find the spines protruding from your body, you can try to remove them. However, if they are below the skin, do not try to dig them out, because this can lead to nasty infections. Just let them be—they will eventually dissolve (soak them with vinegar or some form of antiseptic). Port of Spain's General Hospital is at 160 Charlotte St. Phone 868-623-2951. The Mount Hope Maternity Hospital is located on Eastern Main Road, part of the Eric Williams Medical Sciences Complex, just east of the capital (phone 868-662-7153). The emergency number for fire, ambulance and police is 999.
Don't forget to take sunscreen, sunglasses, insect repellent and a hat. Hepatitis vaccinations are also recommended. If you are traveling by ferry to and from Venezuela, you will need a yellow fever vaccination certificate. A shot against typhoid isn't a bad idea for anyone spending a lot of time in rural areas.
For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.
Dos & Don'ts
Do expect a lot of attention if you're white or a single woman, especially on the beach. The island has a macho culture, and local men love to show their appreciation for the opposite sex. If this kind of cultural interchange is not welcome, a firm "no" will do the trick.
Don't be surprised to hear men making a sucking sound to catch a woman's attention. It's known as being sooted.
Don't expect anything to run on time—Trinis are too laid-back to be hampered by the restrictions of a clock.
Do get familiar with the term "lime," which means to hang out.
Don't leave valuables visible on seats in rental cars—this is an invitation for theft.
Do say "good morning" or "good afternoon" before starting a conversation with someone on the street or in a shop.
Don't wear beach attire away from the shore or pool—it is not appreciated on the streets.
Don't remove coral—doing so is illegal.
Don't go around the Chase Village strip clubs south of Chaguanas—they are raided frequently and attract a rough crowd.
Don't expect good restaurant service or any hotel-room service during Carnival (your waiters will be out partying in the streets).
Do expect hotel prices to shoot up during Carnival.
Hotel Overview
Accommodations range from fairly deluxe beach properties to local hotels and inns. Most are clean and more than adequate. Be sure to do some research before making reservations, as some hotels are isolated—even from beaches. Staying in guesthouses and bed-and-breakfasts is a good way to meet Trinidadians. Some accommodations have kitchenettes, and others even give you the option of hiring a cook. If you're going for Carnival or the month preceding it, book early.
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S.
Beginning 1 June 2009, passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. There's an airport departure tax of TT$100, payable in local cash or U.S. dollars. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.
Languages: English (official), Hindi, French Patois, Spanish.
Predominant Religions: Christian (Protestant, Roman Catholic, Spiritual Baptist), Hindu, Islamic.
Time Zone: 4 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-4 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.
Voltage Requirements: 110 volts or 220 volts.
Telephone Codes: 868, country code;
Currency Exchange
The official currency is the Trinidad and Tobago dollar (TT$). Coins are of one, five and 25 cents, and there are bill denominations of one, five, 10, 20 and 100. Keep bills of TT$20 or smaller for making change with taxi drivers or street vendors.
U.S. dollars are sometimes accepted. Most banks have ATMs and will give cash advances on credit cards and change money. If you change money, keep your receipt so you can reconvert any currency before your departure (you cannot convert Trinidadian money outside the country). Banks are usually open Monday-Thursday 8 or 9 am-3 pm, Friday 8 or 9 am-1 pm and 3-5 pm.
Tipping
Most hotels and restaurants add a 10% service charge to the bill. If it isn't included, tip 10%-15%.
Weather
The best time to go is January-May, when it's coolest and the least rainy. Daytime temperatures are in the 80s F/28-32 C, with nights in the 60s-70s F/15-27 C. Because of the trade winds, it rarely feels excessively hot. June-November is the rainy season, when the islands are subject to more clouds, rain and humidity. Both islands are usually outside the path of hurricanes. Take a sweater or jacket, because evenings tend to cool off quite a bit.
What to Wear
Hats, sunglasses and sunscreen are a must. Skimpy clothing is fine for the beach, but nowhere else. Nude or topless sunbathing is against the law (though you may encounter it in some secluded areas). Casual clothing is appropriate during the day and for evenings at most restaurants. You'll notice that locals love to dress up—Trinidadians more than Tobagonians. Men may want to take along a coat and tie—several restaurants require them in the evening. Long pants and good shoes are recommended for hiking in the forest. Depending on the season, some travelers may find the nights cool. Long sleeves are never a bad idea to fend off mosquitoes around dusk.
Telephone
It's easiest and cheapest to make international calls from the Telecommunications Services of Trinidad (TSTT) office, off Independence Square at Edward Street. For the sake of convenience, you might want to consider purchasing a phone card, available for TT$15, TT$30 and TT$100 and for sale in shops, pharmacies and groceries or from the phone company. Look for red signs with Phone Card written in yellow. Local calls cost TT$0.25 at phone booths, but at least four times as much if you are calling a cell phone. Dial 6211 for local directory assistance and 0 for international assistance. For rapid response in emergencies, dial 999.
To use your cell phone, you must register with TSTT and pay for a sim card and activation fee. Mobile phones are also available for rent.
Internet Access
Many hotels have either a computer for guest use, Wi-Fi or data ports for those traveling with laptops. Public libraries offer free Internet access, and Internet cafes are common.
Mail & Package Services
You can mail letters and postcards at any TT Post, which are widespread. Look for the black-and-white sign. They are open Monday-Friday 7 am-5 pm, and some open on Saturday, as well.
Newspapers & Magazines
The main daily newspaper is the
Trinidad Guardian, and there are two daily tabloids:
Trinidad and Tobago Express and
Newsday. All are a bit larger on the weekends and offer coverage of local entertainment.
Bus
Local buses have improved in recent years. You must purchase tickets at convenience shops before boarding one, however. PTSC buses are cheap, comfortable and fast transportation connecting Trinidad's larger cities. Maxis—minibuses—hold 10-20 people and follow set routes but no timetable. After 8 pm, these become unreliable. Route taxis are also available.
Car
Rental cars are in short supply, but those available go for about US$45 a day and up. The best places to rent are at the airport, at the cruise-ship terminal, elsewhere in Port of Spain and in San Fernando. A U.S., Canadian or international driver's license is required. The roads in Port of Spain are crowded and chaotic with weaving traffic; in the country, they are narrow and winding. Driving is on the left. Never leave anything of value inside a rental car: Theft is rampant.
Ferry
Ferry service is available daily between Trinidad and Tobago. The ride, which takes two to five hours, costs about US$17 round-trip. The ferries depart four times daily, with the first ferry leaving at 6:30 am for Tobago. They leave from the docks in the heart of Port of Spain. Ferry times change monthly and at short notice. For a full schedule of sailing times, visit the Port Authority of Trinidad and Tobago Web site, http://www.patnt.com, or call 868-623-2901, ext. 160.
Taxi
There are three types of taxis—regular taxis (look for the H on license plates), route mini taxis (which hold five or six people and repeat a set route in the cities) and maxi taxis (they are color-coded, hold as many as 12 people and follow a set route, but they go to the suburbs and other parts of the island). Maxi taxis traveling to locations outside the city can be boarded at the City Gate transport hub on South Quay. They have a standard price, and you must pay before boarding to be covered by the operators' insurance.
Taxis can be stopped anywhere along their routes. Calling ahead is sometimes preferable, and you should agree on the price before entering the cab. Standard rates for trips from the airport are posted at the airport, but extra luggage or late hours incur extra charges. Taxi stands exist in Port of Spain and other locations throughout the country. St. Christopher Taxi Co-op can be reached at 868-627-2257. The Piarco International Airport Co-op Society can be reached at 868-669-1689.
