St Martin/St Maarten Travel Guide

If you had to pick a single island to represent the variety of travel experiences available in the entire Caribbean, St. Martin/St. Maarten would be a good choice. It has two nationalities, French and Dutch, which provide a good sampling of the different European cultures that have left their mark on the West Indies. The island has coral reefs for diving and snorkeling, spreads of beautiful white sand for sunbathing and all the duty-free shopping you could dream of. It's partly exclusive and upscale, with pricey restaurants and boutiques, partly geared to the mass tourism of cruise ships and large resorts. You will also find an island that's well-connected to the outside world, with fine hotels, glitzy casinos and excellent restaurants.

History

The divided status of St. Martin/St. Maarten is a result of the colonial tug-of-war between European powers in the Caribbean. The island was inhabited well before Europeans arrived, however: An archaeological dig in St. Martin revealed tools and pottery dating back to 550 BC. Columbus supposedly set foot on the island in 1493, naming it in honor of Bishop St. Martin of Tours. However, by that time, the island had been taken over by the fierce and cannibalistic Caribs, which may be why the Spanish never developed it.

Dutch settlers arrived in the early 1600s, and every colonial power active in the Americas thereafter owned a piece of the island at one time or another. Legend has it that a Frenchman and a Dutchman finally settled an argument over territorial rights by pacing off their shares. Of the 37 sq mi/96 sq km, the French got the bigger slice, but the Dutch got the most valuable real estate—the Salt Pond and the harbor (the international airport is also on the Dutch side). The 1648 Treaty of Concordia marked the formal division. The Dutch part of the island is administered, along with the rest of the Netherlands Antilles, from Curacao, and the French part is administered from Guadeloupe. St. Martin uses the euro as its currency, and St. Maarten uses the Netherlands Antilles guilder (though both commonly accept payment in U.S. dollars, too).

Snapshot

The island's attractions include Dutch and French culture, fabulous white-sand beaches, friendly people, fantastic duty-free shopping, snorkeling and scuba diving, volcanic mountains, deep-sea fishing, horseback riding, excellent food (especially in St. Martin) and casinos (in St. Maarten).

Those interested in the classic Caribbean holiday—shopping, beaching, gambling, eating, partying—will enjoy St. Martin/St. Maarten. Those seeking a quiet island with little commercial development may be disappointed.

Potpourri

There's an upside to having to rebuild after a hurricane: Everything is shiny and new. St. Martin/St. Maarten has been hit hard by storms in recent years, so the island may seem more modern (and less quaint) than many other parts of the Caribbean.

Nonresidents can now tie the knot on the Dutch side of the island. Don't expect to do so on a whim, however: The necessary paperwork includes an official letter that must be requested from the lieutenant governor of St. Maarten 14 days before the marriage. On the French side of the island, 30 days' notice is required to marry.

Sunbathers heading for the pretty beach at Maho Bay should know that they will be directly under the flight path of the island's main airport. If you're prepared, the giant jets provide an amazing spectacle as they scream over the beach close enough for you to get a clear look at the pilots. Unprepared beachgoers caught snoozing may need an additional week on a very quiet beach to recuperate.

St. Martin/St. Maarten is the smallest land area in the world where sovereignty is peacefully divided between two countries.

During the off-season (mid-April to mid-December), prices can fall by 30%-50%.

The fluffy white stuff sometimes seen blowing up from empty fields isn't snow, but remnants of cotton from old plantations.

The alleys that connect Front and Back streets in Philipsburg are called steegjes (pronounced STAKE-yas) in Dutch.

You'll notice that many of the older wooden houses on the island have gingerbread-style trim. These intricate decorations are known as fretwork in the Caribbean, and there are more than 100 different patterns on the island. If you're looking for ways to tell the French side from the Dutch side, look at the decorative touches on the older buildings. You will see more wrought iron on the French side.

Christopher Columbus first spied St. Martin/St. Maarten on 11 November 1493.

Peter Stuyvesant, who later founded New Amsterdam (New York City), lost a leg fighting the Spanish over St. Maarten.

The border between French St. Martin and Dutch St. Maarten changed 16 times between 1648 and 1815, when a final peace treaty was signed between the two nations.

Nightlife

All of the gambling is on the Dutch side, as are most of the shows. The casinos are lively all evening and into the morning hours. Discos and clubs are always rocking with music—live and otherwise. You'll find everything from reggae to salsa to jazz to big-band.

Hours vary at the island's casinos, but most are open from around noon until at least 2 am and offer Las Vegas-style gambling (blackjack, roulette, craps and slot machines). There are four casinos on Front Street in Philipsburg, a short walk from the pier.

The French specialize in lively bars and sidewalk cafes, such as the harbor-front Bar de la Mer in Marigot. Many stay open until 2 or 3 am. Trendy discos get going after midnight and continue on into the wee hours.

Shopping

The streets of Philipsburg and Marigot are filled with shops selling high-gloss items—international designer clothing and jewelry, for instance—at lower prices than you're likely to find elsewhere in the Caribbean. The harbor-front stalls in Marigot are popular places to shop for local art, T-shirts and souvenirs. Don't miss the West Indies Mall in Marigot.

Prices are in euros in St. Martin, in Netherlands Antilles guilders in St. Maarten and sometimes in U.S. dollars on both sides of the island. Everything sold on the island is duty-free. Be aware that "duty-free" means importers on the island didn't pay duty and can offer low prices. It does not mean your purchases will be exempt from duties and taxes imposed by your home country's customs officials. Most major credit cards are accepted, though most merchants prefer Visa or MasterCard. Some shops offer discounts for cash purchases (but not for traveler's checks). Bargaining is taboo, except in the small discount stores and market stalls.

Shopping Hours: In St. Martin, generally Monday-Saturday 9 am-12:30 pm and 3-7 pm. In St. Maarten, Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm.

Day By Day

The following seven-day itinerary covers both sides of the island and allows a day for a sightseeing excursion to one of the nearby islands: Saba, St. Eustatius, St. Barthelemy or Anguilla. There are frequent and speedy air connections to these islands from the St. Maarten/St. Martin airport, as well as fast ferry services.

Day 1—Arrive in St. Maarten.

Day 2—Spend a morning in Philipsburg, then go to the beach.

Day 3—Spend the day driving around the island, stopping at inviting sights and beaches. Go for a horseback ride on the beach and visit the Butterfly Farm on the French side of the island. After dinner, hit one of the casinos.

Day 4—Go to Marigot for a morning of shopping and lunch, then head for the beach.

Day 5—Make a day trip to another island.

Day 6—If scuba diving or snorkeling interests you, take a boat tour to the St. Martin underwater nature preserve. Another option would be a sailing excursion. Return to Philipsburg if you need to make some final duty-free purchases.

Day 7—Depart.

Dining Overview

The French side gets most of the dining fame, but the Dutch side has its share of restaurants that shouldn't be overlooked. Be aware that the high quality of the food is reflected in meal prices, which may shock newcomers. Grand Case, a former fishing village, is the best place to sample the island's sumptuous French cuisine, but you'll also find an assortment of interesting cafes in Marigot.

Do try some of the local specialties. Seafood, with an emphasis on snapper and lobster, is usually fresh and served spicy. Funchi (an island cornmeal concoction) often accompanies island dishes such as goat stew. Other Creole specialties not to miss are accras (codfish fritters), crab backs and johnnycakes (cornmeal bread).

If you're not interested in the haughtiest of haute cuisine in the Caribbean, try the shacks—called lolos—that abut one another near the Grand Case pier. (Most of the original wooden ones were washed away by Hurricane Luis, but they've been rebuilt with cement blocks.) The Creole version of a fast-food joint, lolos attract residents and adventurous tourists with their rakishness, beach and water views, generous portions of traditional island food and low prices.

Don't miss a chance to sample guava-berry liqueur. A blend of rum and a native berry that grows in the hills, the liqueur has been made on the island for 200 years. Most bars and restaurants serve an assortment of drinks concocted with it; a favorite is the guava-berry colada—a blend of cream of coconut, pineapple juice and guava liqueur.

Overview

Both sides of the island of St. Martin/St. Maarten enjoy a low risk rating of 2. However, in common with other Caribbean nations, St. Martin is a money-laundering center and trans-shipment point for illegal drugs bound for the U.S. and Europe. Some drug-related crime occurs, but there have been no reports of these incidents affecting visitors.

Overview

High-risk Areas
None.

Political/social/economic conditions

The Dutch part of the island is autonomous, while the French part is administered from Guadeloupe. St. Martin uses the euro as its currency, and St. Maarten uses the Netherlands Antilles guilder (though both commonly accept payment in U.S. dollars, too).

Until July 2007, St. Maarten was one of the Netherlands Antilles, part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands with full autonomy in internal affairs granted in 1954. However, the governments of the islands later began to consider disbanding the Netherlands Antilles as a political entity. A commission set up to consider the issue in October 2004 recommended that Curacao and St. Maarten should be allowed to govern themselves, with Saba, Bonaire and St. Eustatius ruled directly by the Netherlands. After nonbinding referenda in Bonaire and St. Maarten supported autonomy from the Netherlands, an agreement was reached in November 2006.

In June 2004, a new coalition government led by Prime Minister Etienne Ys was installed.

Tourism, petroleum trans-shipment and offshore finance are the mainstays of the small economy, which is closely tied to the outside world. The island enjoys an better-developed infrastructure than other countries in the region. Almost all consumer and capital goods are imported, with Venezuela, the U.S. and Mexico being the major suppliers. Poor soils and inadequate water supplies hamper the development of agriculture.

Crime

In recent years, petty crime has increased. Valuables, including passports, left unattended on beaches or in cars or hotel lobbies are easy targets for theft. Burglaries and break-ins are increasingly common at resorts, beach houses and hotels. Armed robbery occurs occasionally. The boating community has reported a handful of thefts, so exercise caution in securing boats and belongings.

Crime

Violent crime
In June 2006 a French woman who had been living in St. Maarten for seven years was found raped and killed on a hillside. In early April 2006, two gay U.S. tourists were attacked with tire irons after leaving a popular nightspot in St. Maarten. One of the men said the attack was a hate crime.

Crime

Drug-related crime
The island's status as a drug transshipment and storage center mandates that visitors not leave bags unattended or agree to carry a package for anyone, so that they don't become accidentally involved in trafficking. Baggage commonly is scanned for contraband, and some airports have installed "body scanners."

There have been incidents of muggings by drug addicts.

Natural hazards

The hurricane season in the Caribbean extends June-November. Visitors should monitor regional weather forecasts and plan accordingly.

St. Maarten has been experiencing a months-long drought, and has begun to purchase water from St. Martin.

Natural hazards

Currents and tides
Exercise caution when swimming because currents and undertows can be strong.

Natural hazards

Water safety
Avoid unpatrolled and unmarked beaches, and never swim alone. Alcohol is a common contributor to drowning deaths because it lowers body temperature and can reduce swimming ability, as well as impairing judgment. If caught in a rip current, swim parallel to the shore until the current eases and you can swim back to land. Always use a lifejacket or personal flotation device when boating or sailing.

Health & medical care

Medical care is generally good in St. Martin/St. Maarten. Hospitals have three classes of service: first class, one patient to a room with air conditioning; second class, two to six patients to a room, with no air conditioning; and third class, 15-30 people in a ward. Patients are accommodated based on the level of insurance they possess.

Health & medical care

Diseases
A small outbreak of dengue fever was reported recently. Take precautions against mosquito bites.

Dozens of people were treated for latent tuberculosis in October 2007 after an exotic dancer was found to have the active version of the disease.

Health & medical care

Avoiding mosquito bites
Mosquitoes carry many serious illnesses, including dengue fever, malaria and West Nile virus. To prevent bites and avoid infection, reduce the amount of exposed skin by wearing long sleeves, long pants, socks and shoes when you're outdoors. Use insect repellent containing deet on exposed skin. Avoid outdoor activities from dusk to dawn, the time when mosquitoes are most active.

Transportation

Driving conditions in the Netherlands Antilles are generally good, although defensive driving is recommended. Nonexistent, hidden or poorly maintained street signs are the major road hazard. Roads are extremely slippery in rainy weather. Watch out for herds of goats that may cross the road unexpectedly.

Night driving is reasonably safe as long as drivers are familiar with their routes and local road conditions. Most streets are poorly lit or not lit at all.

Taxis are the easiest but most expensive form of transportation. As there are no meters, agree to a fare before entering a taxi. Vans are inexpensive and run non-stop during daylight hours, with no fixed schedule. Each van has a specific route displayed in the front of the windshield. Buses, which run on the hour, have limited routes.

Pay particular care when renting motorized aquatic or land transport, or arranging for insurance and liability coverage. Detailed written information of personal responsibilities should be taken before finalizing any rental arrangements.

Infrastructure

Facilities for travelers and tourism infrastructure are widely available. There are no customs checkpoints between St. Maarten and St. Martin.

Travel precautions

No matter how safe you perceive a destination to be, it's important to use good judgment.

• Pay attention to local media.
  
• Avoid open displays of wealth, jewelry or other valuables. Safeguard travel documents such as passports and airline tickets.
  
• Avoid confrontations with locals.
  
• Avoid demonstrations and protests, especially if they appear political in nature.
  
• Don't permit people you don't know to enter your accommodations. Keep your door locked. Don't leave valuables in your room unless they can be locked in a safe.
  
• Avoid illegal drugs, and don't drink alcohol if its use is prohibited. Even if drinking is legal, don't overindulge.
  
• Be cautious of unsolicited offers of assistance from strangers.

In recent years, political terrorism has become a global phenomenon - an attack could occur with little warning anywhere in the world, even in destinations long regarded as safe. Travelers should keep themselves informed of developments that could affect their safety, no matter what their destination.

Etiquette

Island residents are friendly, but generally conservative. A smile and some conversation is appreciated before plunging into negotiations about purchases at shops.

Business travelers should wear lightweight tropical suits and be punctual for meetings. An air of formality prevails, and it is customary to shake hands.

Locals on St. Martin will appreciate it if you try to speak a little French, even if it's just "bonjour," before switching to your native tongue. Also, don't make the "OK" sign with your thumb and middle finger—it's an insult. Use the "thumb's-up" instead.

Personal Safety

What crime there is on the island mostly consists of petty theft and pickpocketing. Both St. Martin and St. Maarten call in additional police to patrol the streets during the busiest tourism season. If you employ some commonsense precautions, you'll likely avoid trouble. Always lock your car and keep valuables out of sight. Better yet, leave them at home or in a secure place, such as a hotel safe. When walking around at night, avoid dark and deserted places. Most tourist areas with restaurants and night spots are well-lit and generally pose no great danger.

For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

Health

Tap water and food are safe to consume on both sides of the island, though you may prefer the taste of bottled water. Your biggest health risk will be the sun—wear a lightweight hat and use sunscreen.

In the event of a diving emergency, the Diver's Alert Network (DAN) will provide treatment advice and, if necessary, arrange for evacuation. Phone 919-684-8111 or 919-684-4326 (both lines connect to DAN's headquarters in the U.S. and accept collect calls). DAN also answers health-related questions about diving. For more information, contact DAN at 919-684-2948 or toll-free 800-326-3822 in the U.S. and Canada. http://www.diversalertnetwork.org.

For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

Dos & Don'ts

Do pick up a fish identification guide so that you know what you're looking at when you're diving or snorkeling.

Do try one of the beers brewed on the French side of the island by St. Martin Bottlers. They're much less expensive than the ubiquitous Heineken.

Don't expect a relaxing stroll through town if you visit Philipsburg while cruise ships are in port. The city sits on a narrow strip of land, and the influx of tourists from the large ships fills it to the bursting point.

Do be patient if you need to make a phone call while on the island: The procedure can be confusing and slow.

Do try the tasty thin-crust pizza cooked in wood-burning ovens at the outdoor restaurants facing Marigot's marina.

Don't be surprised by nudity on some beaches, especially in St. Martin—although on our last trip to Orient Beach, the gapers and oglers outnumbered the total tanners. There is even a clothing-optional hotel there.

Don't go only for water activities and gambling. See some of the historical sites that make the island unique.

Do sample the locally made ice cream, Etna, which is among the best in the Caribbean.

Do enjoy the absence of beach vendors, which can be a nuisance on other islands.

Do rent a sailboat, sail to one of the isolated coves and have a picnic.

Don't try to mail anything on the French side if you are using a Dutch stamp, and vice versa.

Hotel Overview

It's difficult to say which side of St. Martin/St. Maarten you should choose. Both sides offer everything from deluxe hotels to small inns, so it becomes a matter of which culture you prefer and what attractions you wish to be near. The Dutch side has casinos and bigger hotels, if that's your preference. The French side is still very French; the Dutch side is more cosmopolitan and crowded but poses fewer language barriers to English-speaking visitors.

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: Beginning 8 January 2007, all U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S.

Beginning 1 June 2009, passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.

Population: 74,000.

Languages: French (St. Martin) and Dutch (St. Maarten)..

Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic, Protestant)..

Time Zone: 4 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-4 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.

Voltage Requirements: St. Martin, 220 volts; St. Maarten, 110 volts.

Telephone Codes: 590, country code for the French West Indies, 0590 is also the island code for the French side (included in numbers throughout this report—drop the initial zero when dialing from outside St. Martin); 599,country code for St. Maarten;

Banking Hours

Generally Monday-Friday 8:30 am-1:30 pm in St. Martin, and 8 am-3 pm in St. Maarten.

Weather

Temperatures are fairly constant year-round, with daytime highs in the 80s F/28-32 C and nights in the 60s-70s F/15-27 C. Trade winds seem to be blowing all the time, so take along a sweater for evenings. The island's average annual rainfall is only about 45 in/114 cm. The chance of clouds is greater July-October, when intense but very brief showers are possible. Hurricanes can strike the Caribbean June-November.

What to Wear

Informal attire, both night and day, is all you'll need. But never wear a swimsuit in a hotel lobby or in downtown Philipsburg or Marigot (chances are you'll see somebody do this, but that doesn't make it acceptable). Although it's not required, men might want to wear a jacket in the evening in the casinos and restaurants. Women might want to carry a shawl or sweater to keep warm during the cool, breezy evenings and in air-conditioned casinos and nightclubs.

Bus

Public bus service is provided by vans and minivans, with destination signs on the front. They run between Philipsburg, Marigot and Grand Case 6 am-midnight. One-way fares are US$1.50 between any two towns: Philipsburg to Marigot or Marigot to Grand Case.

Car

Rental cars cost US$30-$50 a day. Most of the major rental companies are based near the airport, but several local companies (which typically offer better prices) maintain offices on Front Street in Philipsburg and in downtown Marigot. You must be at least 21 years old and possess a current driver's license. Most of the island's narrow, two-lane, winding roads are in decent shape, but they can be terribly crowded. Philipsburg and Cole Bay Hill, in particular, are known for traffic jams. Residents have a penchant for passing, often when it's not a good idea. Driving is on the right.

Don't travel between the two sides of St. Martin/St. Maarten during rush hour—this short jaunt can take more than an hour during the peak travel period. Keep this in mind when scheduling your trip to the airport or port.

Ferry

Ferries operate regularly between St. Martin/St. Maarten and the neighboring islands of Saba, St. Barts and Anguilla. Schedules change frequently, so double-check times and days of operation before making definite plans. Ferries to Saba depart from Marigot on the French side. Ferries to St. Barts depart from Marigot, Philipsburg and Anse Marcel. Boats to Anguilla operate daily from Marigot.

Ship

Most cruise ships visit Philipsburg on the Dutch side, which has a large terminal for passengers. Some smaller ships anchor off Marigot and tender passengers to the harbor on Boulevard de France.

Taxi

Taxis are usually available. Determine the fare with the driver before getting in. Some typical fares from Marigot are US$10 to Grand Case and US$20 to Orient Beach for one or two people; US$2 each additional person. (Add 25% between 9 pm and midnight, 50% after midnight.)

Calendar

As in so many parts of the world, Carnival is one of the most festive times on the island. The great thing in St. Martin/St. Maarten is that it's celebrated twice: The French side parties in the few days preceding Ash Wednesday, culminating in the burning of a straw King Mou-Mou, and the Dutch have their parades and steel-band competitions during the last two weeks of April and stretching a few days into May. St. Maarten's party lasts longer and is better attended, but both are filled with music, dancing, parades and general fun.

A combination of serious and not-so-serious sailors throng the island in early March for the annual St. Maarten Heineken Regatta, one of the world's largest sailing events. The queen's birthday is marked on the Dutch side on 30 April, and there's more fun to be had when both sides mark the abolition of slavery on Schoelcher Day (21 June). Bastille Day is celebrated on the French side (14 July) with music and boat races. The Around-the-Island Relay Race takes place on 11 November, as does the Feast of St. Martin of Tours (which the Dutch side celebrates as St. Maarten Day and the French side as St. Martin's Day).