The local custom of using beaches as toilets makes many of them a less attractive recreational prospect than they might appear. That said, the palm-lined beaches at resort-style hotels in Accra, Elmina and near Axim are visually stunning and kept spotless.
Beaches in Ghana are not attended by lifeguards and many have a strong undertow, so always ask local advice before taking the plunge.
Bird Watching
More than 600 bird species have been recorded in Ghana, making the country an excellent—though sadly underutilized—introduction to the West African avifauna. Key sites include Kakum National Park for forest birds, Mole National Park for savannah-associated species, and the lagoons at Keta and Winneba for marine birds. Lake Volta and the eponymous river are a focus for their freshwater counterparts.
Shopping
Shop for
kente cloth, an expensive material worn on ceremonial occasions. The colorful geometric patterns have historic meanings. (See the displays at the National Museum in Accra or ask salespeople about the name, design and history of the cloth you are purchasing.) The cloth can be bought at traditional villages such as Bonwire or Adangomase near Kumasi, or Kpetoe or Tafi Abuipe in the Volta Region. Also look for
Adinkra cloth (colorful hand-stamped material), wooden stools, dolls for fertility (which are known as
Akua'ba) and other magical purposes, real or simulated gold weights, wood carvings, ceramics, jewelry, brassware and
oware game boards (some with intricate inlaid patterns). Kumasi is especially rich in Ashanti crafts. Be prepared to bargain in the local markets.
If you want something really unusual (and can afford to ship it home), consider a custom-made coffin. In choosing your specialized coffin, the tradition is to select something that represents you or something you always wanted but could never have. (Businessmen might choose a Mercedes-Benz-shaped coffin; fishermen might choose one carved to resemble a big fish.)
Shopping Hours: Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 8 am-noon and 2-5:30 pm, Wednesday and Saturday 8 am-1 pm.
Local Tours
Ghana doesn't boast an organized safari industry to compare with the likes of Tanzania or Kenya. The vast majority of travelers explore the country independently, using public transport or a rental car. Bespoke tours tend to be low-key, prone to minor setbacks such as vehicle breakdowns, and concentrate on coastal historical sites such as the slave forts and the Kumasi region. The country features a proliferation of inexpensive and popular community-run ecotourist projects, none of which requires an advance booking.
Most visitors tour the slave castles along the coast, and there is great debate among historians both within Ghana and outside the country concerning their restoration. One side wants to preserve the castles in all of their fascinating horror, leaving chains, branding irons and other instruments of cruelty on display. Others hope to soften tours of the castles, saying that a less-graphic presentation of the fortresses will lure more visitors—and thereby contribute more funds to the preservation of the historic ruins.
Day By Day
We suggest the following itinerary for a first-time visitor to Ghana:
Day 1—Arrive Accra.
Day 2—Explore Accra.
Day 3—Drive to Kokrobite and enjoy the beach.
Day 4—Drive to Cape Coast. Tour the area in the afternoon.
Day 5—Drive to Elmina and see St. George's Castle. Then head for Kumasi, possibly stopping at a cocoa plantation along the way.
Day 6—Explore Kumasi.
Day 7—Drive to Mole National Park.
Day 8—Mole National Park.
Day 9—Drive back to Accra.
Day 10—Depart Ghana.
If time permits, spend an extra day in the Kakum Nature Reserve, near Cape Coast. Other ways to stretch a visit to Ghana could include spending more time in Kumasi or on the beaches, or visiting the Baobeng-Fiema Monkey Sanctuary en route between Kumasi and Mole National Park.
