Few places enjoy as dramatic a setting as Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas' principal town and the capital of the U.S. Virgin Islands. The town sprawls around a deep horseshoe-shaped bay, backed by green hills that sparkle at night from the lights of houses and shops.
During the day, however, when several cruise ships are in port, Charlotte Amalie (pronounced ah-MAHL-yeh) can be a madhouse of shoppers and traffic. The island's duty-free status has made Charlotte Amalie one of the best places in the Caribbean to shop for local arts and crafts, as well as for goods from around the world. Fortunately, there's more to the town and the island than jewelry shops and liquor stores.
On Main and Back streets, and the alleys in between, is a Charlotte Amalie rich in history. The town was built by the Danish in the 1600s as a haven for seafarers and their lucrative, shipping-related businesses. The wide, arched entrances of their stone warehouses, now shops, accommodated cargo for shipping and receiving. Today, they add immeasurably to the town's 17th-century charm. The best way to see the sites is on a walking tour.
Stop by Fort Christian, the oldest building on the island, and the Government House, which is now the governor's office. It has some interesting art, including paintings by Camille Pissarro, who was born on the island.
Blackbeard's Castle was once the site of a pirate lookout, and you'll see why when you reach what was once a small hotel on the hill. There's still a stonework lookout tower that's in good repair, though off-limits to visitors. Even so, the view makes the climb well worth it. Take the 99 Steps from Government Hill off Kongens Gade, and ease the chore by counting the steps on your way up or down: There are actually more than 100.
Charlotte Amalie has some distinctive old churches worth visiting: St. Thomas Reformed Church, built in 1848 in Greek revival style; Gothic-looking Frederick Lutheran Church, built in 1820; and the Memorial Moravian Church, built in 1884 out of blue-tinged volcanic rock. Also stop and visit one of the oldest synagogues in the Western Hemisphere, located on Crystal Gade. Stunning in its simplicity, it was built in 1833, and it continues to serve some 150 families in the area. One unusual feature is the sand floor, allegedly symbolizing the desert crossed by Moses and the Israelites. The deeper explanation goes back to the Spanish Inquisition, when Jews had to worship in secret cellars, and the sand muffled their prayers.
Emancipation Park used to be a restful spot by the waterfront where you could sit on a bench in the shade and recover from the rigors of shopping. Now the Vendors' Plaza occupies the Veterans Drive border, with booths of T-shirts, tropical clothing and bags blocking the water view. The space between benches and booths has become a pickup point for tour vans, complete with the noise and confusion that follow them. The little park is no longer a quiet retreat, but it does provide some interesting people-watching.
The two islands in the harbor, Water and Hassel, are accessible to the public. Hassel Island, reached by launch, is home to a historic marine railway. Most of the island is managed by the St. John-based Virgin Islands National Park. Water Island remains a residential "suburb" of Charlotte Amalie and is a pleasant place for a bike ride. Reach it by ferry from Crown Bay Marina.
