Hyperbole seems to surround Bora Bora, French Polynesia. (Locals often refer to it with a singular "Bora.") James Michener called Bora Bora "the most beautiful island in the world," which may be going too far, though its steep mountain peak and brilliant lagoon certainly are beautiful.
More recently, Bora has been targeted by some travel writers as the French Polynesian island where tourism has gotten out of control—too many hotels, too many people, too much traffic.
The island, 160 mi/260 km northwest of Papeete, does get a lot of visitors (many of them from Japan and the U.S.), but it's still a far cry from a Cancun- or Florida-style buildup. (Some of the bustle results from the fact that Bora is rather small compared to larger tourist islands such as Moorea.) The amazingly clear blue-green water alone will be enough to satisfy most visitors.
Black pearl boutiques and fancy restaurants line the road south from Vaitape, and frugal travelers may feel out of place. Yet snorkeling among the myriad lagoon fish near Matira Point is free, and in half a day you can easily peddle a rental bicycle the 20 mi/32 km around the island.
Sightseeing
More than anywhere else in French Polynesia, Bora's around-the-island sights take a back seat to relaxing at a resort (assuming you can afford to stay at one—this is French Polynesia's most expensive island). Plan on a three-night stay.
If you're going to splurge on an over-water bungalow, Bora is a good island to do it on, because the lagoon is truly spectacular. Once you slide open your glass coffee table and start feeding the fish swimming below your living room, you may never leave your bungalow.
You can rent a bicycle, motor scooter or small car to circle the island on its two-lane highway. Jeep safaris take you up steep tracks to interior viewpoints. Several large cannons installed during World War II can still be visited. (Bora was the site of a large U.S. base during the war.) Several ancient ceremonial sites, or marae, are also open to visitors.
The many gift shops and car rental companies make Vaitape, the island's main village, seem less colorful than some Polynesian communities, but it's a pleasant place to while away an hour or so. The village's charming yellow church is poised against the green backdrop of the mountainside.
Recreation
You'll find the usual lineup of Polynesian excursions on Bora: snorkeling, scuba diving, fishing, shark feeding and island tours.
Moana Adventure Tours provides lagoon tours that include shark feeding and snorkeling with manta rays. They will pick you up at your hotel. Phone 689-676-141. http://www.moanatours.com.
And perhaps more than on any other island, you're likely to see thrill-ride-style activities such as parasailing and Jet-Skiing on Bora Bora.
Dining Overview
Inexpensive roadside cafes with names like Bora Bora Burger provide welcome relief from the pricey fare at the hotels.
If you get the opportunity, have dinner at the island's most famous eatery, Bloody Mary's. In a sense, it's one of those places famous for being famous: Every celebrity to visit Bora ends up there (you'll see their names proudly posted). Celebs aside, we like the south seas/castaway motif that includes a sand floor and bar stools fashioned from wooden stumps. http://www.boraboraisland.com/bloodymarys.
Hotel Overview
Bora Bora doesn't come cheap, and unless you opt for a small, locally run pension, you can expect to pay US$250-$1,000 a night for your room. Some of French Polynesia's most exclusive resorts are on Matira Point, 4 mi/6 km southeast of Vaitape, and many more are on the
motu.
Transportation
Bora Bora's airport sits on a
motu, part of the narrow coral ring that surrounds the main island, so soon after you arrive you will ride a ferry across the lagoon. (Air Tahiti operates a large shuttle, and many of the larger hotels have their own boats.)
On the way, you'll get plenty of nice views of Bora's flat-topped peak (provided it's not shrouded in clouds).
