Dakar is often called the Paris of West Africa, with beautiful tree-lined boulevards, French bistros and a very fashionable population. This capital of 2 million, located near the tip of the Cap Vert Peninsula, is bordered by beaches and 100-ft/30-m cliffs that drop into the Atlantic. For a pleasant introduction to the city, drive around its perimeter between the beaches and the cliffs, then take a walking tour of Dakar's markets. If you want to see where Dakar's well-dressed buy their fabric, visit the Sandaga Market, which has a brilliant array of cloth as well as fruits and vegetables. The touristy Kermel Market and Village Artisanal are good spots for souvenirs, although often plagued by pesky hustlers.
The Musee IFAN de Dakar (on Place Soweto near the National Assembly), known for its displays of crafts, carvings and masks from West Africa, and the modern Musee Dynamique are must-sees for art lovers.
Senegal is an Islamic country, so if you're in Dakar on a Friday, stop and listen to the afternoon call to prayers. If you want to observe the faithful, visit the Grand Mosque. (Non-Muslim women are not allowed to enter, and non-Muslim men are welcome to enter outside of prayer hours just to observe.)
Dakar has some of West Africa's best nightlife. Lively discos and nightclubs are jammed most evenings after 11. The Franco-Senegalese Cultural Center is a good source of information for events held at the center and elsewhere in the city.
Ile de Goree, off Dakar's harbor, is a must-see: It's where slaves were brought before being transported to the New World. The craggy island has a sleepy Mediterranean feel and is most peaceful in the evenings when the day-trippers have gone home.
Several other half-day and full-day trips can be taken from Dakar. To the west, visit Cape Almadies, the westernmost point of mainland Africa and home to lobster reserves and an old fort. To the east of Dakar is Cayar, a very nice fishing village. Stop and watch the fishermen return to port with their catch. Farther east, there is a Benedictine monastery in Keur Moussa. Visitors are welcome to attend its African-style masses. Pink Lake, or Lac Retba, is an inland salt lake. Its pinkish hue is caused by bacteria in the water. Unfortunately, the hustlers that hound visitors to the lake can make this fascinating place less than relaxing.
There are several good beaches near the capital, but be aware of the possibility of undertows. Ask around to find out which beaches are safe. Some of the most beautiful beaches are in the Yoff area, a traditionally Muslim area rarely visited by either tourists or locals. The nicest of the small beaches near the capital are on N'Gor Island, although getting there can be a hassle. The beaches are only a short canoe trip from the village of N'Gor, but be aware that crews competing for passengers can get aggressive, and you might find yourself hustled to one boat while another crew tries to hustle you away to another.
Senegal's best scuba diving is in the water off either N'Gor Island or N'Gor village. South of Dakar there are larger beaches at M'Bour and Saly. The Cap Vert area is graced with sand dunes, baobab trees, beautiful Atlantic views and a small beach with snorkeling nearby. Toubab Diallo is a very pleasant fishing village that lacks the crowds and hustle of Dakar, Mbour and Saly, and offers dance, music and batik-making courses.
