Cyprus sits in the easternmost corner of the Mediterranean Sea. The island was formed by an enormous volcanic eruption at the point where the Asian and African geologic plates met under the ocean. The eruption is responsible for the two main mountain ranges, the Troodos Mountains in the central part of the island, and the Kyrenia Range, which runs parallel to the northern coast.
In the south, the mountains slope away into rolling hills and coastal plains, where there are highly developed areas such as Limassol, Larnaca and Paphos, the three main resort areas. Larnaca and Ayia Napa, to the east, are flatter, hotter and drier than the west. The hills behind Limassol, the island's main port, are used for grape cultivation and fields of dusty, silvery olive trees, whereas beyond Paphos, in the far west, bananas are grown. The coastal strip is densely populated, but just one mile inland the holiday homes give way to scrub-covered, rolling countryside and pine forests in the Troodos mountains.
At the very far west of the Republic of Cyprus, the Akamas Peninsula is a protected nature reserve, home to rare species like griffon vultures, and green and loggerhead turtles.
The north is far less developed, although with a similar landscape—typically Middle Eastern, with dry hills, olive trees, dusty trails and small, isolated villages.
Cyprus is not especially known for its stunning beaches, although there are some. Ayia Napa in the east has long stretches of soft sand, which get very crowded in July and August. Larnaca's beachfront has recently been developed and is stunning, lined with bars, restaurants and a broad promenade. In Limassol, the beaches are narrow but the quality of the hotels and their lavish gardens makes up for this. Neither is Paphos blessed with spectacular beaches, although the sea is warm and clean and some of the coastal scenery breathtaking, with tall cliffs and sea caves.
The southern two-thirds of the island makes up the Republic of Cyprus (Greek Cyprus), and the northern third is controlled by Turkish Cyprus. The U.N.'s Green Line, which divides the island, cuts through the shared capital, Nicosia.
The island nation of Cyprus is at the junction of Europe, Asia and Africa, and the world's great conquering empires—from the Phoenicians, Assyrians and Romans to the Crusaders, Venetians and British—all ruled there at one time or another. Despite all these influences, Cyprus has retained its essential character. Its coastal cities (Paphos and Limassol in the south, and Famagusta and Kyrenia in the north) are not only charming but also rich in tradition, myth and story. It was in Cyprus that Cicero philosophized, Othello agonized, St. Paul was berated and Aphrodite was created.
One can only hope that the current divisions do not become a tragic part of this rich heritage. The intercommunal strife has resulted in the political division of the island into the (Greek) Republic of Cyprus in the south and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. (Turkey is the only nation to recognize Northern Cyprus as a state.) Leading up to the division were years of tension and occasional violence between the ethnic Greeks who governed the island and the ethnic Turkish minority. When Greece's military junta made a move to annex Cyprus in 1974, Turkey sent forces to prevent that from happening. The result was a division that left about a third of the land in Turkish hands (in 1983, the Turkish community unilaterally declared independence). The situation since then has been at a stalemate, although restrictions on movement and contact between the two communities were loosened in April 2003. The Green Line, which slices the island in half, is now open at five separate points for crossing, and people, vehicles and goods move between the two sides with relative ease.
In preparation for Greek Cyprus' entrance into the EU, the United Nations tried to broker an agreement to unify Cyprus with a referendum in April 2004. Although the referendum was embraced by voters on the Turkish side, it was overwhelmingly rejected by Greek Cypriots, leaving the island divided. Greek Cyprus joined the EU in May 2004. Greek Cypriots continue to oppose reunification; in the May 2006 elections, they backed the ruling coalition party, endorsing its opposition to a united Cyprus.
Since Greek Cyprus joined the EU, there have been noticeable differences in life on the island. Locals claim that prices of everyday goods have gone up. The boom in foreign ownership of property has also continued, as it is now less difficult for nonresidents to buy a home. Some Cypriots are getting rich from the property market, but the environment is under considerable pressure in some areas because of land development.
Cyprus' main attractions are ancient Greek and Roman historical sites, Byzantine art and architecture, modern Turkish and Greek culture, beaches, skiing, mountain scenery and spa resorts.
Cyprus will appeal to travelers who are already in the Middle East and want to spend time on a beach but haven't been to Greece or Turkey. Travelers who have already seen the Greek islands or the Turkish coast may be unimpressed with Cyprus (it's a subdued version of those destinations). Nonetheless, the island is not without charm and can make a pleasant stopover if you're traveling by ferry between Greece and points in the Middle East.
After the fall of the Berlin Wall, Nicosia became the only divided capital city in the world.
In Greek Cyprus, the word for stranger (xenos) also means guest, providing linguistic evidence of Cyprus' warm hospitality.
Gambling is illegal in the Republic of Cyprus but allowed in Northern Cyprus, which has become a gambling center, though not yet a gambling hot spot. Many Turkish casinos are moving to Northern Cyprus—there are more than 20 now, most of them near Kyrenia. Despite the boom in openings, most of the casinos are only half-full: European jet-setters still favor Monte Carlo and other gambling locales.
The Green Line, the border that cuts the island in two, gets its name from the color of ink used on military maps.
The island is rich in copper. The ancient Greek words for Cyprus and copper are the same, though it's uncertain which came first.
The Karpas Peninsula, a long finger of land in northeastern Turkish-occupied Cyprus, is an undeveloped and beautiful area seldom visited by tourists.
A local myth states that anyone who bathes in the sea under a full moon at the Rock of Aphrodite will achieve eternal youth.
Most people on the Greek side speak some English—Cyprus was a British colony from 1878 to 1960.
Several famous popular musicians have connections to Cyprus. Singer George Michael was born to Cypriot parents in London, and the father of musician Yusef Islam (formerly known as Cat Stevens) was from Cyprus. Australian singer Peter Andre has close family on the island.
