Cradled in a private 55,000-hectare jungle reserve near Gallon Jug in remote northern Belize, this is the most remote of Belize jungle lodges, as well as its most polished operation. Barry Bowen, known as the richest man in Belize (he owns Belikin Beer), has lavished much personal attention to this gem of a jungle lodge, built on the ceremonial courtyard of an ancient Maya complex. Bounded on all sides by unexcavated ruins and virgin jungle, this is paradise for birders, history buffs and wildlife lovers. Guests can be truly adventurous, driving three-and-a-half hours along rugged roads from Belize City, or take the easy way and fly over the forests to a private airstrip at Mr. Bowen's expansive ranch.
An air-conditioned van transports guests the 10 km to the lodge on a road hedged by dense jungle. The tidy log-lined structures fan out from the main building, where reception, the dining room and the library lounge are located.
While there are tables indoors, most guests prefer to eat on the shaded veranda, which looks out on the landscaped grounds where wild turkeys, monkeys, and songbirds provide entertainment. Three-course meals are served at mahogany tables. To one side is the library lounge, where a deep cushioned
sofa and some armchairs provide a nice nook for studying the art, culture and natural history contained in the many books on the shelf. In a separate building is the bar, tended by Irma. The indigenous woods cast a warm glow over the many tables here, but usually no more than a few guests ante up to the bar each evening, as the clientele tends to be of the "early-to-bed, early-to-rise" persuasion.
The screened jungle pool, lined with giant fronds, has a whirlpool fed by cascades, and is one of the most atmospheric pools in Belize. Other recreation is found on easy, well-marked and groomed hiking trails that weave through the Jurassic Park-like scenery, home to spider monkeys, howler monkeys, jungle cats and squadrons of beautiful birds. Chan Chich offers some of the best jaguar-sighting possibilities in Belize. The local guides are prized for their patience and knowledge of nearby ruins. Jungle picnics, night expeditions, riding and canoeing are also available.
The spacious bougainvillea-cloaked cabanas are among the most comfortable in the country. All are thoughtfully constructed to evoke a jungle feel without compromising comfort. Each has a thatch roof, cozy hardwood interior, sisal matting and a veranda with oversized hammocks. Artwork brightens the wooden interior walls, while all exterior walls are a hardwood grill of jalousies that filter the light. The screens let in a cacophony of birds every morning, as well as the scream of howler monkeys in the middle of the night. Ceiling fans stir the air, and chilled drinking water quenches thirsts. Desks, ample built-in shelving and paired queen beds with quilted spreads and crisp white linen adorn the interiors. Baths are large, with compact stall showers, very generous vanity space, lots of hooks and plenty of hot water. Cabana 12 affords the most privacy.
The luxury Villa, set off in a corner of the plaza, offers a two-bedroom suite, each with king bed. It provides air conditioning and outdoor areas, one of which has a screened whirlpool and an outdoor shower. It also has a large common room with bar and sofas.
Floppy-hatted naturalists, archeology buffs and birders adore it here. Book well in advance for winter. The current managers have brought a high level of enthusiasm to this archetypal jungle lodge and work hard with their young Belizean staff to maintain Chan Chich's excellent reputation.
