Cairo's most unusual neighborhood is east of Old Cairo. It's actually a large cemetery—it looks as if it's part of the city, but the buildings are tombs. Some of the most fascinating mosques in Cairo—including the 15th-century Mosque of Qaitbey, whose elegant carvings are especially beautiful—are there, and visitors can climb some of the minarets for good views. Entrance is free, but a tip to the caretaker, if you see him, will be appreciated. It's estimated that more than 1 million people live among the tombs. The residents sometimes resent curious visitors, so if you do visit, go early in the morning and be conscious and considerate of the people around you. It's not safe to visit after dark.
