This lodge, on an 8,000-ft-high plateau inside the park, 300 ft from the steep rim of a many-hued canyon, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Despite the historic look of its exterior, the large two-story stone-and-log building has lost much of its charm in modernization. Xanterra is now the concessionaire, but little has changed here over the past few years. Thanks to the lackluster style and basic dining, the highlight for most overnight guests is the convenience to the trails and proximity to this national treasure.
The original fireplace remains in the lobby, but imitation-wood seating and
low-pile carpeting do nothing to enhance its glow.
Reasonably priced meals are served in the upstairs dining room, where regional specialties are prepared, and reservations are a must for dinner (book at time of reservation). Service is slow, and the cooking is mediocre but pricey. Lighter fare is available in the all-day cafe.
Recreation is limited to outdoor activities such as trail rides and hikes, and tours can be arranged, but nothing on the scale of what is offered at Ruby's. A post 
office, exhibits and a gift shop specializing in Native American art lie off the lobby.
The only accommodations in the main lodge are three second-floor suites. The majority of rooms are in two-story annexes. These have routine motel-like furnishings with two queen beds and porches or balconies. Cabin rooms, two to four in each freestanding building, show more authentic decor. These units are worth the nominal extra cost for their mullioned windows, stone chimneys, peaked roofs, wainscoting, gas fireplaces and superior location. Some sit on the rim's edge, and most have spectacular sunrise or sunset views. Although quaint, these too suffer from nondescript furniture, small combination baths and an occasional squirrel on the rafters. Clock radios, air-conditioning, hair dryers and phones are the only amenities, and there are no TVs, but the surrounding scenery compensates. Some updating has improved the accommodations over the past few years—new spreads and carpeting—but overall, unless being inside the park is of prime importance, look into Ruby's.
The lodge is open April through October.