Celebrity chef Lydia Shire serves up creative versions of traditional New England specialties, such as rum- and tobacco-smoked salmon, classic Boston scrod and shellfish from the restored oyster bar, but a bit of international influence can be found in more adventurous dishes—Thai shrimp cakes with tamarind sauce, for instance. But most diners really go to Locke's to soak up the atmosphere of this old-money Boston enclave, in business since 1875. Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. Reservations recommended. Jackets required for men. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 3 Winterplace (Downtown Crossing T stop on the Orange and Red lines or Park Street T stop on the Green and Red lines), downtown, Boston. Phone 617-542-1340. http://www.locke-ober.com.
