Most visitors to Columbia begin their experience in the country's capital, the Andean city of Bogota. Allow three nights to see the city sights. It's set at 8,500 ft/2,600 m and above—if you fly in from a much lower elevation, take it easy for a day or two to adjust to the altitude. Founded in 1538 by Spanish conquistadors, Bogota lies at the base of a mountain range that includes the shrine-topped peaks of Monserrate and Guadalupe.
Bogota's three main areas are its downtown, the relatively wealthy and rather safe northern suburbs (where most of the nicer accommodations are found), and the poorer, crime-ridden suburbs to the south. Most of the tourist sights are in the historic central neighborhood of La Candelaria. Wide-eaved, balconied colonial houses are arranged in a grid around the Plaza Bolivar, the principal square and seat of government. Arrayed around the plaza are the imposing neoclassical administration buildings, the cathedral and the enormous Palace of Justice. (The old palace was destroyed in 1985, when government troops stormed the building after it had been taken over by armed guerrillas.) Make sure you walk around La plaza del Chorro de Quevedo, where the city was founded, to get a real feeling of colonial-era Santa Fe de Bogota.
Bogota's best museum is the Museo del Oro (Gold Museum), containing one of the world's richest collections of gold and emerald jewelry and artifacts from the pre-Columbian era (English-language tours are available). The museum presents its precious artifacts in perfectly lighted large glass cabinets (http://www.banrep.gov.co/museo/eng). Other museums include the Colonial Museum (paintings, sculpture and other Spanish artifacts) and the Museo 20 de Julio, which documents the nine-year struggle for independence beginning in 1810. Do not miss the Museo Botero, which shows the private collection of Fernando Botero, Colombia's best-known painter. It also includes works of Renoir, Matisse, Picasso and Dali and of course many paintings by Fernando Botero himself (check out more of his work in Medellin). Other draws include the 16th-century Church of San Francisco (a plain building with an incredibly ornate baroque interior), Simon Bolivar's house (Palacio de San Carlos), his villa (Quinta de Bolivar) and the Iglesia de la Tercera (fantastic walnut and cedar carvings). The U.S. Embassy is itself a landmark of sorts, being an outstanding example of modern fortress-style architecture. Take the funicular to the top of Monserrate for a nice view of the city (allow several hours—the restaurant there is expensive but good). You can also walk up the hill in one hour, but only in the Semana Santa and on Sundays, when there are many pilgrims. Do not attempt the walk during the week, as robberies occur frequently. If you are looking for good nightlife, try La Zona Rosa (The Pink Zone), a wealthy neighborhood on Calle 82 between carreras 11 and 15 that has many restaurants and bars. It is quite safe, but you might still prefer to go by taxi.
A favorite day trip from the capital is to the salt mines of Zipaquira. The mines were opened centuries ago by Chibcha Indians and are still worked today. Deep inside is an enormous cathedral, carved directly from the walls of the salt mine. The cathedral has 14 stone pillars and holds about 8,000 people. (Check locally to see if the cathedral is open.) If you do visit, be sure to dress warmly—it gets chilly underground. Normally, the drive to Zipaquira takes 40 minutes (90 minutes by bus), but rail buffs can indulge in a two-hour ride on a tourist steam train running on Sunday to Nemocon, 9 mi/15 km northeast from Zipaquira (you may not want to take the train both ways). Another pleasant excursion from Bogota is Villa de Leyva.
