This giant park (801,163 acres/324,471 hectares) is in a remote corner of West Texas 270 mi/435 km west of San Antonio, but it's well worth the effort to get there. In the southwestern part of the state, where the Rio Grande makes its "big bend" (essentially a giant U-turn), the park includes three separate ecosystems—river, mountain and desert. Desert terrain—the Chihuahuan Desert to be exact—dominates, however, making the park a fascinating place to visit during late fall, winter and early spring. (The summer months can be very hot—avoid visiting then unless you plan to spend all your time in the mountains.)
Most visitors begin their tour of the park in the Chisos Mountains, which tower over the surrounding desert, topping out with Emory Peak at 7,825 ft/2,385 m. Cooler and greener than the surrounding desert, the Chisos offer excellent backcountry hiking and camping in forests of pines and oaks. After visiting the mountains, head for the Rio Grande, an oasis of water in the midst of the desert. (Don't be tempted to drink the water running through this oasis, though—it's far from potable). Two canyons highlight this portion of the park: Boquillas Canyon to the east and Santa Elena to the west. Rafting and float trips have become very popular on both stretches of the Rio Grande—you can find Class I to Class IV water, though things get considerably tamer when the water is low. Extended float trips on the Rio Grande can be arranged through outfitters in three towns west of the park: Lajitas, Terlingua and Study Butte. Short hiking trails near both canyons also let you get a glimpse on foot of the sheer rock walls.
If you have any energy left after you've seen the mountains and the river areas of the park, take one of the easy walking trails that wind through the desert. (More strenuous hiking routes are also available throughout the park.) Cactus and lechugilla (a plant with daggerlike leaves) are among the plant life. The oasis at Dugout Wells is a particularly good place to observe desert wildlife. When you stop at this permanent drip of water, it feels as if you are surrounded by all the birds of the desert.
The desert, mountain and river areas of the park are laced together by paved and unpaved scenic roads. (We love Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, which winds down to Santa Elena Canyon.) Other activities within the park include bathing in historic hot springs, trail riding on horseback (though it's BYOH—bring your own horse), fishing, swimming, camping and wildlife viewing. Animals in the park include mountain lions and bears (seldom seen), bobcats, deer, javelina, roadrunners, foxes, snakes (including rattlesnakes), tarantulas and an incredible variety of birds—it's the only place to see the rare Colima Warbler in the U.S.
Many of the park's services are centered in the Chisos Mountains Basin. In addition to the only lodge in the park, it has a restaurant, grocery, visitors center, campground and gift shop. Several hiking trails begin in the basin. Other centers of activity are Rio Grande Village (a campground, visitors center, grocery and gas station) and Castolon (a campground and grocery). There is another gas station at Panther Junction. Camping and lodging facilities within the park are often filled, so try to reserve your place well in advance. http://www.nps.gov/bibe.
Terlingua, west of the park on Highway 170, was a mining town from the late 1800s to the mid-1900s. After turning into an utter ghost town for a few decades, it's been resurrected—sort of: It's now a tourist village and a residential retreat for those who wish to get away from it all—far, far away. It tends to attract offbeat characters, and many of them have renovated old miner shacks into houses. Usually a low-key place, Terlingua is transformed each November when its famous chili cook-off takes place. http://www.historic-terlingua.com.
Lajitas is a little less funky. It's home to the Lajitas on the Rio Grande shopping and resort development, which was built to resemble an Old West town. Still, the town has some classic Big Bend quirkiness courtesy of the Lajitas Trading Post, an old mercantile store dating to 1915. The store is the home of Mayor Clay Henry III, a famous beer-drinking goat. Study Butte, Terlingua and Lajitas all offer overnight accommodations. http://www.lajitas.com.
West of Lajitas, Highway 170 follows the Rio Grande for 50 mi/80 km, ending at the border town of Presidio. Known as the River Road (El Camino del Rio), it's one of the most scenic drives in Texas, if not the U.S., winding up steep grades and dipping down to riverside pull-offs. Just outside of Presidio, you'll pass Fort Leaton State Historic Site, a restored fort and trading post that dates to the 1840s. The adobe-style architecture is beautiful, and the rangers maintain the fort so that it looks like a working hacienda, complete with goats in the courtyard (these goats don't drink beer, though). http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/findadest/parks/fort_leaton.
For much of its route, the River Road is within Big Bend Ranch State Park, a massive preserve that opened in 1991. Facilities are limited, but there are campsites inside the park, a visitors center and information displays that detail the natural history of the area. A few backcountry trails are open to both hikers and mountain bikers. http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/findadest/parks/big_bend_ranch.
