This exclusive lodge lies in the breezy Beho Beho Hills within the Selous Game Reserve, which is Africa's largest, extending over more than 45,000 sq km in the remote southeast of Tanzania. It stands about 10 km west of the Rufiji River, close to the grave of Frederick Courtney Selous, the legendary septuagenarian hunter who was shot dead here by German snipers in World War I. It can be reached from Dar es Salaam following a long, sandy road that takes at least a full day to cover, but most visitors fly here directly from Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar or Ruaha National Park. Established more than 20 years ago, Beho Beho functioned intermittently for much of its lifespan, but following a recent refurbishment and fresh launch, it is widely and justifiably rated the best lodge in the Selous.
The reception area and plush furnished lounge are in a large stone and makuti structure in the heart of the camp. Also here are the bar and dining room, which serves high-quality and unusually imaginative international cuisine at a common hardwood table. Bush dinners and breakfasts are also served on some days, weather permitting. Facilities include a large pool surrounded by a wood deck studded with umbrella-shaded lounge chairs.
The main activities are game drives to the nearby lakes, which harbor ample lions, elephants, giraffes, buffalo, hippos and various antelope. The quality of game drives out of this camp is exceptional, thanks to the knowledgeable guides. This reserve is the most important extant stronghold for the endangered African wild dog, which is most regularly seen around the breeding season of May-August. Guided game walks are offered, as are boat trips on nearby Lake Tagalala, with its dense hippo population and thriving birdlife. A hippo pool and hide fringe the camp, and slightly farther afield guests can visit Selous' grave and a forested set of hot springs.
Accommodations are in a well-spaced row of eight suitelike stone bungalows with open sides and makuti thatch roofs. The bungalows are very spacious and stylishly decorated with whitewashed walls and ample use of natural materials such as local stone and wood. Each bungalow has one king bed and one single bed with fitted netting, two shaded balconies, an indoor sitting area, dressing tables, and a large en-suite bath with solar-heated water and a roof open to the stars. Electricity is provided by a generator.
Designed to meet the needs of the true bush aficionado, this intimate camp has to rank among the ten most upmarket game lodges anywhere in Tanzania, and the high standard of food and accommodations is mirrored by the exceptionally knowledgeable guides. Inevitably, however, this sort of service comes at a price, and more budget-conscious travelers should consider the more midrange Rufiji River Lodge, which lacks the luxurious touches but offers comparable game viewing.
