Located 90 minutes north of Piarco Airport, this nonprofit nature reserve is engulfed in a dense rain forest that encompasses what was once a cocoa and coffee plantation. It is one of the world's best spots for tropical-bird-watching. Most guests focus their binoculars on the jungle, which teems with blue-headed parrots, toucans, cuckoos and a rare colony of Steatornis caripensis, or oil birds. Guests staying at least three days enjoy a complimentary guided trip to see the famous birds at Dunston Cave.
Airport transfers can be arranged and are recommended, as this property is difficult to find. (Take the front passenger seat if you are susceptible to carsickness: The road into the mountains is very curvy.)
Reception is on a porch with shuttered doors and windows. The sitting area and veranda overlooking the feeders are furnished with comfortable chairs for the afternoon tea and stools along the railing for optimal views of feeding birds.
Included in the tariff are afternoon tea, rum punch and all meals, which are served as simple but flavorful buffets of hearty selections. Some may find the selection
unimpressive, but it remains in line with what the locals might eat.
Marked hiking trails crisscross the jungle, and excursions to other fascinating parts of the island are available for a fee. A raincoat is a must on account of heavy year-round precipitation, and a small gift shop sells much-needed bug repellent. The crude pool is best for just a quick dip; in reality, it is a natural grotto fed by a rain-forest stream.
Accommodations are clean but plain, as one would expect at this type of nature hotel. The two guest rooms in the main house are appointed with dark woods, antiques and king beds. They offer less privacy, though, than the twin-bedded cottages, which have plain hardwood furniture, terrazzo floors, and paddle fans to supplement the breezes. The hot water in the shower-only baths is usually reliable. Phones are lacking.
This place suits adventurous ornithologists who want to commune with nature, not those looking for luxury, business amenities or tropical-island atmosphere.
