The country's second-largest city is often left off of Egyptian itineraries, but we think Alexandria is worth a day's visit for the atmosphere alone. It has a relaxed, Mediterranean feel—more laid-back than Cairo and not as hot. Unfortunately, however, the city is not immune to violence: Clashes occurred between Muslim and Coptic Christian populations in 2005 and 2006.
The best place to soak in the relaxed atmosphere is on the newly restored Corniche, a promenade along the crescent-shaped bay. Most of the city's sights are within walking distance of the Corniche. In fact, some of the city's attractions are
in the harbor. Marine archaeologists have located huge statues and other remains from the city's Hellenic and pharaonic past. One building may or may not be Cleopatra's palace. Various proposals have been made for an underwater antiquities park—one plan includes submerged walkways in transparent tunnels—but so far nothing has taken shape.
Above water, the newest attraction is the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, a modern revival of the ancient library. The round, sloped building is partly submerged in water, and inscriptions from various civilizations are carved into its granite walls. The library is a center for culture, science and research. Not far from the library is the Greco-Roman Museum, which displays artifacts from 300 BC to AD 300—almost modern by Egyptian standards. A well-preserved but small Roman amphitheater is near the museum. Alexandria's newest museum, the Alexandria National Museum, opened in August 2003. Its 1,800 artifacts are all on display for the first time. Other sights to visit in the city center include the Royal Jewelry Museum and the three-tiered Roman catacombs of Kom el-Shukafa. Skip Pompeii's Pillar—it's not very interesting, even for scholars.
At the western end of the harbor, on the island of Pharos, is Qait Bey, an impressive 15th-century fortress. It's on the site where the Great Lighthouse (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World) once stood. Also near the western end of the Corniche, is Abu el-Abbas el-Mursi Mosque, the city's most important Islamic monument. It's a finely decorated building, with a towering minaret and four ornate domes.
East of Alexandria is Montazah Palace, which includes a former royal palace (currently, the presidential palace) and nice seaside gardens. West of the city are several beach resorts. The resort of Marsa Matruh, although not exactly next door (it's 145 mi/230 km west), has good beaches, excellent reef diving and beautiful turquoise water.
The ancient town of Rashid (40 mi/65 km northeast of Alexandria) is where the Rosetta Stone was discovered in 1799 (it's now in the British Museum in London; a copy is in Cairo's Egyptian Antiquities Museum). The stone contains an edict written in Greek, demotic Egyptian and hieroglyphics, proving to be the long-sought key to understanding hieroglyphics. There are some interesting old buildings in the town but little else for tourists; only those who highly value its historic significance should go there. Alexandria is 110 mi/180 km northwest of Cairo.
