The capital of Ghana, Accra (pronounced
ah-CRA) is a pleasant coastal city of 2 million people 125 mi/200 km southeast of Kumasi. Start your sightseeing at the National Museum, which has a great collection of tribal art and ceremonial items—allow at least two hours. Next to the museum is a good crafts market, with paintings, prints and postcards for sale. If you're in the mood for more craft shopping, stop by the National Cultural Center, maybe the country's best source for authentic souvenirs.
The city's most popular shopping center is the Makola Market, a good spot to buy fabric. For more exotic items, seek out the Timber Market in the neighborhood known as Usshertown. This market is known for its fetishes, African talismans and charms said to provide protection from various evil events. (The area where fetishes are sold is hard to find, so ask someone in the market to take you there.)
Black Star Square (also known as Independence Square) includes a memorial to three people who were shot during the struggle for independence. At the W.E.B. Du Bois Center, you can see the grave of the U.S.-born civil-rights leader, as well as a library devoted to his philosophy of pan-Africanism. The Osu Castle houses the nation's government—be aware that photographing it is illegal. After a hard day of sightseeing, stop by the Osu Night Market for good food and a lively atmosphere. Or catch some music at one of the city's equally lively nightclubs.
If you want to escape the noise and hustle of the city, there are pretty beaches nearby at La and elsewhere along the road toward Tema. Kokrobite, in particular, is charming. Try a pineapple from one of the peddlers on the beach (hold the leaves and eat the peeled fruit like a Popsicle) or, if you have a place to cook, buy one of the succulent local lobsters fresh from the fishing boats. The tiny oceanside village also has some of the country's liveliest drum and dance performances. The dances are held on weekends—sometimes they last an entire day. (Be aware that theft has been a problem on the beach in recent years.)