Most commonly known as the Big Island, Hawaii Island is also known as the Orchid Isle and the Volcano Isle. It's physically bigger than all the other islands of the Hawaiian archipelago combined, but big does not mean crowded and busy. The island of Hawaii retains a rural flavor, and many residents are grateful to be removed from the urban bustle, just as some visitors will be.
Most visitors to the Big Island congregate on the west side, primarily in sunny Kailua-Kona and along the majestic Kohala coast, but on the east side, in tropical Hilo, you will find a number of attractions and activities of interest as well. The landscape is varied, too, changing from beach to mountain and from dry desert to moist upland rain forest. Eleven of the world's 13 climate zones can be found there.
Visitors determined to see an active volcano will find one of the best bets on the Big Island: The world's most active volcano, Kilauea, has been erupting sporadically since 1983. (You can watch the flowing lava safely, but the best viewing spots change daily.) You'll also find colorful beaches—golden, green, gray, black and white—and even a beach that disappears seasonally (between Keauhou and Kona, it is claimed temporarily by the tide). The deep-sea fishing and snorkeling are both great, and in some places excellent.
The Big Island also boasts Mauna Kea (the world's tallest mountain, if you count the portion below the surface of the sea); numerous large cattle and horse ranches (the Parker Ranch is the largest privately owned ranch in the U.S.); and more gorgeous flowers than you can imagine—most of the orchids for the leis made in the state are grown there. All of this peace and nature means that nightlife and shopping are limited. Most visitors, if they go to the Big Island at all, stay for only a few nights, though those captivated by the island's low-key charm could stay much longer.
History
The first people to arrive in Hawaii probably came from the Marquesas Islands and landed along the southern shores of the Big Island around AD 500. Later settlers probably arrived from other islands in Polynesia.
Around 1790, Kamehameha the Great, a chief from Kohala on the Big Island and a fierce warrior, defeated his rivals and consolidated his control on the island of Hawaii. During the next few years, his army conquered the islands of Maui, Molokai and Oahu in an attempt to unite the islands, and by 1810, Kamehameha was recognized as king of all Hawaii. This was the founding of the Hawaiian monarchy, which lasted until 1893.
Capt. James Cook, the first Westerner to explore Hawaii, visited the Big Island in 1779. Unfortunately, after various altercations between Cook's sailors and the Hawaiians, Cook was killed at Kealakekua Bay. Today, a monument on the shores of the bay marks the spot where Capt. Cook died.
After the death of Kamehameha the Great in 1819, the outside world began to take notice of the once isolated islands. Missionaries introduced Christianity at a time when alcohol abuse, Western diseases and the rapid breakdown of the ancient Hawaiian system had created a confused situation for the Hawaiians. The missionaries gained an easy foothold because they aligned themselves with the chiefs against some of these modern evils.
With the growth of the sugarcane industry in the early 1800s, the Big Island became Hawaii's biggest cane grower. Sugar planters turned to immigrant labor for help, bringing thousands of immigrants from China, Japan, Korea and the Philippines to Hawaii to work on the plantations. Over time, sugar planters and American businessmen brought about the annexation of Hawaii by the U.S. in order to provide a guaranteed protected market for their product. Hawaii became a state in 1959.
The sugar industry collapsed in the late 1990s and the mills and plantations closed. Hawaiians varied their crops to stay competitive: Macadamia nuts, tropical flowers, bananas, papaya, coffee and exotic tropical fruits are grown all over the Big Island. In addition, the Mauna Kea Observatory Science Complex and its numerous international telescope facilities have added a unique high-tech edge to the island's economic infrastructure. Hawaii Island also continues to rely on tourism. The Kona and Kohala coast resorts continue to grow, and numerous private vacation homes and condominiums have been built by mainland and overseas investors.
Snapshot
The highlight of Hawaii Island is its landscape of mesmerizing beauty and stark contrasts, including dramatic volcanic mountains, lush rain forests, cascading waterfalls, sandy beaches of many colors and beautiful coral reefs.
Visitors who are looking for lively nightlife and shopping may be bored on the Big Island, but those who are looking for outdoor adventure, whether on land or water, will find plenty to do.
Potpourri
This island's name is Hawaii, but it is called "the Big Island" so as to avoid confusion with the island state's name.
The Kona coast is the original location for the Kona coffee industry, where its ideal climate still produces the world-famous beans.
The Big Island has a whopping 266 mi/428 km of coastline.
The Big Island is twice the size of all the other islands combined.
Ka Lae, also known as South Cape, is the southernmost point in the U.S. and is the place where the first Polynesian settlers landed.
Hawaii Island is the only Pacific island where it's possible to surf at the beach and snow ski on a mountain all in the same day.
On his 1866 visit to the Big Island, Mark Twain planted a monkeypod tree at the small town of Waiohinu. The original tree was toppled in a storm, but the roots sent up a new shoot. The tree survives as the "Mark Twain Monkeypod Tree."
Although English is the official language of Hawaii, you may hear locals speaking pidgin English. It evolved from the merging of Hawaii's multiethnic groups. One term you may hear is "Howzit?" Basically, it means "How are you?" or "How is it going?"
Recreation
Watersports and hiking are among the Big Island's biggest draws. This is the most rugged of the main islands; if you're into the outdoors, this is the place for you. Try snorkeling, scuba diving or just relaxing on the beach. Or for landlubbers, there are amazing parks and botanical gardens and even horseback rides at one of the country's largest private ranches, Parker Ranch in Waimea.
Hiking & Walking
The Big Island offers abundant hiking opportunities, including Hawaii Vocanoes National Park, where visitors can watch actively erupting Kilauea Volcano.
Scuba & Snorkeling
Kealakekua Bay is one of the best snorkel sites on the island, and several Kailua-Kona-based companies offer various scuba-diving and snorkeling packages. Expect to pay about US$75-$255, depending on your tour.
Shopping
The southern portion of the Kona coast produces the best Hawaiian coffee, Kona. We recommend spending extra for the 100% Kona coffee, because Kona blends contain a lot (in some cases up to 90%) of other coffee varieties in addition to the higher-quality Kona beans.
The southern Kona coast also produces macadamia nuts, avocados, mangoes, breadfruit and papayas. The Kona Coast Macadamia Nut and Candy Factory has a vintage machine that lets you husk and shell your own macadamia nuts (phone 808-328-8141). There are also a ton of not-so-pricey gift and antiques shops in the area.
Hilo and Kailua-Kona, as the larger urban centers of the island, have the biggest shopping malls. Kailua-Kona also has several small shopping arcades and centers, especially along the Alii Drive bayfront area and farther south at Keauhou. For local art, visit the small village of Holualoa north of Kailua-Kona. This artists' colony has several art studios and galleries worth browsing. Hilo has a major shopping mall and several noteworthy shops and boutiques downtown on Kamehameha Avenue, along the bayfront. Waimea also boasts two shopping malls and a few smaller centers and individual shops. The Kohala coast resorts and hotels have numerous on-site resort shops and stores. The Waikoloa Resort features the Kings' Shops Center, with numerous local shops and designer boutiques.
Day By Day
Day 1—Arrive in Hilo and see the town. Plan to stay two nights in Hilo or at Volcano.
Day 2—Visit Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
Day 3-4—Stay in the Kailua-Kona area or somewhere on the Kohala coast. Tour the south Kona area and Kailua-Kona. Visit the historic sites and coffee farms and mills in the Kona area.
Day 5—Tour Waimea and the Waipio Valley and return late to Hilo. Overnight in Hilo.
Day 6—Depart.
Dining Overview
From fine Pacific Rim dishes served in grand hotel dining rooms to small restaurants' local plate lunches (two scoops of white rice, one scoop of macaroni salad and a teriyaki-beef, fried-fish, shrimp-tempura or other entree), the Big Island offers many dining opportunities. Traditional American cuisine, regional Italian food and a whole range of Asian dishes—zesty Chinese, delicate Japanese, spicy Korean, tasty Vietnamese—all are represented by the more than 200 restaurants across the island. Sample the island's fresh seafood, but remember that it's generally more expensive at popular tourist spots.
Hawaiian regional cuisine has gained a wide following in recent years. It blends the freshest local ingredients—seafood, fish, beef, lamb, pork, chicken, fruits and vegetables—with innovative preparation styles, spices and flavorings.
Personal Safety
Crime is minimal on the Big Island and the streets are quite safe, but be sure to take the usual precautions. Be aware of your surroundings, especially at night. Don't leave valuables unattended, and don't leave anything of value inside a parked car. One special precaution: Don't trespass on unfamiliar property around Hilo—particularly in forests where farmers have been known to protect marijuana crops with rifles and booby traps. Avoid going out alone at night on Banyan Drive in Hilo, where most of the Hilo Bay hotels are located, and along Alii Drive in Kailua-Kona. These areas are frequented by purse snatchers and thieves.
To call the police, phone 911 or 808-935-3311.
Health
In general, the biggest health concern is sunburn. If you're going to be outside, always, always wear sunscreen—even if it's overcast. Many a vacation has been ruined by a painful, blistered skin.
If you're going in the water, do what the locals do. They're more likely to know where to go to avoid strong currents, as well as jellyfish and Portuguese man-o-war, both of which pack a powerful sting. There are sharks in Hawaii, but attacks on humans are rare. Just don't swim in murky waters or at dusk, when sharks are more likely to be feeding. If you get caught in a riptide, don't try to swim toward shore. Instead, swim parallel to the shore until you escape the relatively narrow band of water pulling you out.
Hawaii has fewer poisonous land animals than most places. You'll probably never see one, but the centipedes there are nasty—big and aggressive with a painful sting. There are also small scorpions that you'll want to steer clear of, and mosquitos thrive in some areas. There are no snakes and although the cockroaches and cane spiders are large, they're harmless.
On the Big Island, one of the bigger health concerns is volcanic fog, or "vog." It includes sulfur dioxide and other pollutants and can cause bronchial irritation or asthmatic symptoms for some people. Just be aware, especially if you're trying to get close to the lava.
The health system is good and if you run into a problem, there are hospitals and clinics scattered across the island. In an emergency, dial 911.
Dos & Don'ts
Do honor the custom of removing your shoes at the door before entering someone's home.
Do practice the "Aloha Spirit" by saying "thank you" to any person who helps you or provides a service.
Do know the difference between kane (man) and wahine (woman), because many restroom designations are in Hawaiian only.
Don't wear swimsuits or go barefoot anywhere but at the beach.
Do leave the resort areas long enough to visit the quaint villages of the island.
Hotel Overview
Hawaii offers a range of lodging options, and many are located in and around Kona on the western side of the Big Island. Most of the condos are there as well. Although the accommodations in rainy Hilo are limited, the city has the best budget accommodations. Bed-and-breakfasts, which usually are moderately priced, are scattered around the island.
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S.
Beginning 1 June 2009, passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.
Population: 167,293.
Time Zone: 10 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-10 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.
Telephone Codes: 808, area code;
Currency Exchange
The best place to exchange money is at local bank branches in Hilo, Kailua-Kona and Waimea. ATMs are readily available at supermarkets, shopping centers, resorts and other outlets around the island.
Taxes
Technically there is no sales tax in Hawaii, but a general-excise use tax of 4.167% is added to all goods sold. An additional 7.25% transient accommodations tax is charged, as well as a 0.55% surcharge, making the total tax on a hotel room about 11.97%.
Tipping
Tip good waitstaff 15%-20%. Decent taxi drivers usually get a 15% tip, plus a quarter or two for each bag. Give the bellhop US$5 and the parking valet US$1-$2. Leave US$1-$2 each day for housekeeping services at the hotel. The cost of living in Hawaii is high, so local workers really rely on and appreciate tips.
Weather
Hawaii has two seasons—winter and summer—but the island's weather varies little throughout the year. Conditions change according to location more than season, but in general, winter is slightly cooler and rainier. (Regardless of when you go, take a sweater for the evening and something heavier to wear at higher elevations.) The rainy season begins in October, but it shouldn't ruin a vacation. Of the two coasts, Hilo experiences more rain than dry, sunny Kona. Hilo sees 129 in/328 cm of rain annually, so expect some showers regardless of the time of year.
Hawaii enjoys its best weather from mid-May to the end of June and from mid-September to mid-November. You can also expect fewer crowds during these periods. Daytime temperatures remain in the 70s-80s F/22-32 C and nights in the 60s-70s F/17-27 C.
What to Wear
You can leave the suit and tie at home. Even if you're there on business, aloha shirts and khaki slacks usually are appropriate. If you're there for fun, take mostly bathing suits, shorts, T-shirts and tank tops. Women might consider taking a couple of sundresses—they come in handy for a day at the beach or a night out. If you're planning to hit some of the fancier restaurants, women usually wear pretty skirts or dresses with sandals and men are comfortable in a nice pair of slacks and a short-sleeved shirt. If you're wearing shorts, leave your aloha shirt untucked. You can tuck it in if it's a more formal occasion. A lightweight sweater or sweatshirt may come in handy at night, especially if you're there in winter months. You'll only need something warmer if you're planning to spend time at Mauna Kea's summit. Standard footwear is sandals and flip-flops (called "slippers"). You'll also want a pair of hiking boots or sturdy tennis shoes to get around the rougher terrain.
You may never even use it, but a small tube of mosquito repellent is good to have on hand. Sunscreen, on the other hand (SPF 15 or higher), is a necessity. Cake it on several times a day. An umbrella might come in handy for protection from sun and rain.
Telephone
There's only one area code in Hawaii: 808. Calls within the boundaries of each island are local; calls to other islands are long distance. Cell phone coverage in Hawaii is pretty good, especially if you're near one of the larger towns. You might check with your service provider before you leave home to make sure you won't incur any extra charges. For most people, making a cellular phone call from Hawaii is exactly the same as from anywhere else in the U.S.
Internet Access
Internet access is decent. Although the Big Island isn't a coffee-shop-on-every-corner type of place, there are a few Internet cafes on the island. Most hotels have some sort of access, too—just check ahead to see exactly what's available.
Mail & Package Services
Mail service is reliable and generally faster than you'd think. A carrier service is only necessary if a letter or package is extremely urgent.
Newspapers & Magazines
Hawaii's two largest newspapers are based in Honolulu—
The Honolulu Advertiser and
The Honolulu Star-Bulletin. In addition, the Big Island has two smaller dailies—
Hawaii Tribune-Herald in Hilo and
West Hawaii Today. Dozens of other free, glossy publications with ideas on what to do and coupons for those activities are available at the airport or at other stands around the island.
Transportation
The Big Island has two airports: Kona International (KOA) and Hilo International (ITO). Local interisland airlines connect the Big Island to the other Hawaiian Islands. There are also some direct flights between Kona and the mainland U.S.
The most practical method of transportation on the island is a rental car. (The state has imposed a US$2 per day rental vehicle surcharge tax.) If you plan to drive on the Hilo side of the island, do not take anything but a reliable four-wheel-drive vehicle down the steep road into Waipio Valley or up to Mauna Kea. And although four-wheel-drive isn't required for the Saddle Road between Waimea and Hilo, it is recommended; most rental car agency contracts have clauses voiding liability coverage for regular cars traveling on Saddle Road and other back-road areas such as the spur road to Ka Lae (South Cape). However, a regular car will get you to all the major scenic attractions and activities around the Big Island.
Other methods of transportation include taxis, local buses and bicycles. Escorted tours are available and recommended for inexperienced, budget-minded or first-time visitors.
When driving, practice the "Aloha Spirit" of the islands. Don't honk the horn at a stoplight if the car ahead doesn't go as soon as the light turns green. If it's safe, go around the car. Allow others the right-of-way. Remember that it is legal to turn right at stop signs and red lights without a full stop, if the way is clear and safe.
Many bridges in Hawaii are older and only wide enough for one car to cross at a time. The custom is to let all the cars going one way cross, and when there's a break all the cars from the other side cross.
