This hotel on a winding, hidden street near the harbor of the romantic old town, around the corner from the Amphora, is a sophisticated international hideaway offering welcome respite from this island's monoliths. The inviting atmosphere is uniquely low-key. Three lovingly restored 17th-century mansions frame a noble courtyard enriched with balustrades, a marble patio (slippery when wet), an arched portico and a pebble mosaic of a Cretan sun.

The lobby is in a small vaulted vestibule, and the antique wooden bar is in a second vaulted chamber across the courtyard. Breakfast is served alfresco under a gigantic ficus or on the panoramic rooftop terrace overlooking the bay.

Newly added conference space accommodates 24, but parking is lacking. The Internet access corner is complemented by wireless Internet access downstairs.

The real treats here are the air-conditioned accommodations, nine of which are actually suites, and the remainder oversized quarters with large sitting areas. These creative multilevel quarters come with rich color schemes, original brick and wood trim, black-and-white marble floors, modern or neoclassical furniture, and marble baths with showers, tubs or whirlpool tubs. All boast minibars, safes, phones with data ports and TVs with three English-language channels. Most provide sitting areas and large dining tables, a few have terraces that vary by exposure, and one has a kitchenette. Decorative elements include antique ironwork, and each unit is a veritable art gallery. The best suite has four levels trimmed with two massive stone archways. Four units face the old port. Round-the-clock room service is a comfort when the port's restaurants and bars close.

Taste, quality, reasonable rates and some of Crete's most stylish rooms make this a house worth remembering.