Located two blocks from the shore, this remains one of the most elegant inns in town. Since the last inspection, the new owners have been tidying up the place, but the hotel's whimsical Victorian sensibilities remain in tact.

A cream, yellow and green picket fence rings this grand Italianate villa, which was built by two zealous (and successful) gamblers in 1872 as an exclusive men's club. The inn also includes a cottage next door and the Officers' Quarters across the street.

The veranda of the main house is a fitting introduction to interiors with 14-ft ceilings, ornate plaster moldings and elaborate chandeliers. The comfortable Victorian-style drawing room shows original pine floors, a carved wooden fireplace, a grand piano and wainscoting.

Included in the rates, a full breakfast and afternoon tea are served in the dining room. (Guests can eat out on the veranda in summer.) The cottage's parlor is airy in shades of white, pink and green.

Beach passes are provided, and parking is provided for all but three of the least expensive accommodations. Guests in the latter units receive permits to park on the street.

Guest rooms vary considerably in their appointments, with the favorites looking as if the original residents still lived there. The prized period digs, mostly in the inn, are well appointed with papered or stenciled walls and extravagant antiques.

Among the impressive perks are flat-screen TVs, phones, wireless Internet access, robes in the period baths. Mattresses and bedding are in fine shape.

The Officer's Quarters' four two-bedroom suites are comfortable and contemporary, with air conditioning, antiques, kitchenettes, TVs and DVD players, large marble baths with whirlpools and decks.

Disabled guests are accommodated, as are children older than 12, but younger children can be booked in purported suites only. Smoking is permitted only on the veranda. Pets are not permitted.

The property is closed from January to mid-March (except for special-event weeks), but the Quarters are open year-round. A minimum stay of three nights is required in season.

This place works well for those who want the intimacy of a bed and breakfast, yet seek a modicum of privacy and the amenities found in hotels. The Virginia Hotel offers a higher level of service and dining with an urban flair.