Cancun Travel Guide

Cancun, Mexico, is wrapped in crystal clear water and brilliant sunshine, so it's no wonder the shoreline gets top billing. Developers created this comfortable resort area on the Mexican Caribbean from the sand up to take advantage of the gorgeous aquamarine water and temperate climate. Cancun is the top resort in Mexico.

Cancun either reassures visitors or annoys them. Travelers who enjoy the feel of Old Mexico will never find Cancun to be as colorful or as spontaneous. With more than 30,000 hotel rooms, it's not the place for isolated sun worship, either. The resort facilities have overgrown the original plans for the town, making the layout of hotels and shops somewhat cramped.

But those hankering for a no-hassle beach vacation can fly in and soak up the sun without speaking a word of Spanish (or exchanging U.S. dollars). And those interested in learning about the ancient Maya civilization can visit several exceptional archaeological sites on day trips.

Also within reach is the island of Cozumel, a haven for divers and snorkelers. Playa del Carmen, once an oasis of rustic, laid-back charm, is one of the fastest-growing areas in the country, with a great variety of restaurants, bars, shops and entertainment.

Must See or Do

Sights—The palatial hotels that line Kukulcan Boulevard; the Mexican flavor of the shops and restaurants in Ciudad Cancun; a day trip to see Maya ruins at Chichen Itza, Coba or Tulum; watching the sunset from the lagoon by the La Isla Shopping Village.

Memorable Meals—Mexican and Caribbean specialties at La Habichuela; rack of lamb at Cote Sud; blackened redfish at Blue Bayou; Caribbean lobster under the stars at Captain's Cove; anything on the menu at Paloma Bonita.

Late Night—Dancing to Cuban bands at El Azucar; a party cruise; dancing and watching the lively shows and celebrity impersonators at Coco Bongo.

Walks—Strolling along the beach; window-shopping in Ciudad Cancun; exploring Isla Mujeres.

Especially for Kids—Dolphins at Atlantida in Wet 'n' Wild; the marine life at the Interactive Aquarium; hanging out with live crocodiles at Crococun.

History

The low-slung jungles of the Yucatan Peninsula were first settled more than 2,000 years ago by the Maya. Their advanced civilization and elaborate temples continue to fascinate archaeologists and casual visitors alike. By the time Hernando Cortes began the Spanish conquest of Mexico in 1519, the Mayan culture was already in decline, but the conquistadores accelerated that decline with deadly European diseases and weaponry. Eventually, the northern part of the Yucatan was settled by landowners of Spanish descent who used the Maya as workers.

Despite its scattered agricultural holdings, the area was largely ignored by the rest of Mexico, both during the colonial period and after independence. That was mostly because the region was very isolated. For centuries, the only practical way to get there was by sea: The first rail line wasn't built until 1949. When the Mexican government began scouting sites for a tourist resort in the 1960s, the idea of Cancun was born. After a few years of furious building, the idea became a city. The first resorts opened for business in 1974, and the surrounding region was designated as the state of Quintana Roo at about the same time. In the decades since, Cancun has grown more and more popular and has stimulated a booming tourism business along the Yucatan coast.

Cancun can no longer support new hotels because no more land is available for building. However, new developments with hotels and golf courses are being designed for areas slightly north and south of Cancun.

Potpourri

Cancun is in Mexico, but at certain times during the year it's so crowded with U.S. teenagers and twentysomethings (particularly during spring break) that you could easily mistake it for a Florida beach resort.

If you want to see the first light of day strike Mexican soil, spend the night at Isla Mujeres, to the north of Cancun. It's the easternmost point of Mexico.

Before it became a resort, the area where Cancun now sits was inhabited by only a few fishermen.

Although Cancun has the best shopping on the Yucatan Peninsula, there's very little in the way of local crafts.

Cancun and the surrounding islands of Cozumel, Isla Mujeres and Playa del Carmen account for one-third of all foreign tourists visiting Mexico.

There's a gravestone for the pirate Fermin Mundaca in the small cemetery on Isla Mujeres. Mendaca designed it himself. However, he died in Merida and is buried there.

Sightseeing

The sights most Cancun visitors want to see are the beach and the ocean. That's probably a good thing, because there aren't many other attractions—no casinos, few historic sites, no public parks or gardens, and no historic neighborhoods.

The hotels themselves are attractions. We recommend stopping at some of the more outlandish ones along the Hotel Zone to have a margarita and marvel at the architecture—you'll find variations on Miami Beach and Las Vegas, along with Mexican themes. The buildings are a dizzying melange of styles, from block-long pink palaces with towers and cupolas to sleek, mirrored pyramids with huge, tree-filled atriums.

There are a few escapes from the resorts, however. Ruinas del Rey provides a decent, if brief, introduction to the ancient world of the Yucatan, especially if you can't make it to one of the bigger archaeological sites. The shores along Nichupte Lagoon (particularly the southern end) are less developed and more protected from the open sea. They're rich with bird life. Most hotel travel desks sell lagoon tours or something billed as a "jungle cruise" that's actually a boat ride through the lagoon to look for tropical birds. These are frequently bundled with a stop for snorkeling in the Caribbean shallows.

For anyone interested in Mayan history and culture, a visit to one or more of their ruined cities is essential. Tulum, on the coast south of Cancun, is the closest, but tends to fill up with coach parties. Chichen Itza is the most famous and a World Heritage Site, and Coba, the least developed of the three, is in a shady jungle, making it ideal for an afternoon visit. Local tour operators offer convenient packages, or you can hire a car and organize your own visit.

Recreation

Outdoor fun in Cancun is all about enjoying the warm, clear Caribbean Sea. Nearly every kind of watersport is available, from windsurfing and sailing to fishing and scuba diving. The easiest way to rent gear or find an operator is through your hotel—many of the larger properties have a watersports crew on-site. First-class golf courses, health clubs and tennis courts are also available for anyone who tires of the ocean.

Beaches

The Caribbean side of the Hotel Zone is justly famous for gorgeous white-sand beaches, but these aren't necessarily the best places to swim—the surf can pound mercilessly, and the undertow can be treacherous. Swim only where you see the water-safety pennant system: A white flag means the swimming is excellent, green signifies good or normal conditions, yellow means you should use caution, and black or red means conditions are unsafe. If you don't know what the water conditions are, don't swim. The safest place for swimming is along the northern shore of the island, facing Bahia de Mujeres.

All beaches in Mexico belong to the government and are therefore public. Once you get onto the beach, you can walk in either direction for as long as you want. Legally, you can use the beach in front of any of the resort hotels and no one can ask you to leave. However, you are not entitled to use any of the facilities provided by the hotel. Several of Cancun's beaches, including those at Playa Tortugas and Playa Delfines, have services that are available to everyone.

Boating & Sailing

You can rent all sorts of watercraft—Hobie Cats and Sunfish, for instance—to play in the sea. Sailboarding is especially popular, and equipment can be rented from seaside vendors at Playa Tortugas. Expect to pay about US$60 for a sailboard (add US$60 or so for lessons). The calm waters of Nichupte Lagoon make it a popular spot to water-ski. And you can literally get a bird's-eye view of the Hotel Zone while parasailing behind a boat.

Many of the major hotels have their own watersports rental facilities. Several independent marinas also specialize in rentals and deep-sea fishing charters.

Golf

There are plenty of courses to keep golfers occupied in Cancun. Official golf information is available from the Cancun Golf Association at http://www.cancungolf.org.

Scuba & Snorkeling

Almost all of Cancun's resorts rent snorkeling masks and fins, and they are complimentary for guests of the all-inclusive hotels. Although the underwater scenery isn't as stunning as that around Cozumel, you'll be surprised by the clarity of the water and the quantity of sea creatures. Snorkelers may want to join an excursion to one of the reefs off the north shore of the island. A popular dive site is the Manchones Reef, which is about 5 mi/8 km northeast of the island—close to Isla Mujeres. Divers and snorkelers also may want to explore the starting point of the Palancar Barrier Reef at Punta Nizuc, near the southern end of the Cancun Hotel Zone.

At Xcaret and at Garrafon Park on Isla Mujeres, you can try snuba—diving attached to a 20-ft-/6-m-long air hose that gives you more flexibility than snorkeling but doesn't require certification. The cost is about US$35.

Nightlife

Cancun is famous for its nightlife, and several of the big resort hotels in the Hotel Zone have discos. Some also host Mexican fiesta nights that include dinner and a folkloric show. Among the popular hot spots are El Azucar next to the Dreams Cancun and—known for their loud music and large, rowdy crowds—Coco Bongo, Dady'O, and the biggest disco in Cancun, The City, on Boulevard Kukulcan.

You also can take the fiesta to the water on one of Cancun's "party cruises." Back on land, if you tire of the party scene, try the jazz club Roots, in Ciudad Cancun. It's a nice alternative to the disco beat of clubs along Boulevard Kukulcan.

Most bars stay open until at least 2 am, and discos until at least 3 am. Many places keep going until dawn, especially when spring-break revelers are in town.

Performing Arts

There’s not much in the way of cultural events or performing arts in Cancun. Xcaret, an hour south of Cancun, hosts nightly Mayan-themed shows featuring local songs and dances.

The Cancun bull ring hosts occasional concerts, boxing matches and special events, though they are mostly targeted toward the local population rather than to tourists.

Most all-inclusive hotels offer nightly shows in their theaters for their guests only. Impromptu performances by street performers are held nightly near the Party Zone and in the area malls.

Spectator Sports

Cancun is a place for visitors to play their own sports, particularly watersports, but there's not much in the way of watching other people play. There is a soccer stadium and a baseball field in Cancun City, but games are not promoted to the tourist population. Bullfights are held weekly, but beyond that, there aren't many other regularly scheduled games or competitions.

Shopping

Cancun's shops are not noted for any particular items, but you can buy anything and everything made in Mexico there. Shopping and browsing are popular pastimes in the Hotel Zone, but don't expect many bargains. In fact, prices are higher there than in other parts of Mexico.

Most shops are concentrated in a series of air-conditioned malls in the Hotel Zone on Boulevard Kukulcan between Km. 7 and Km. 15. These malls have everything from souvenir shops to internationally known boutiques—resort wear and handicrafts are among the best buys. Look for handwoven fabrics, blown glass and jewelry. Specialties of the Yucatan include hammocks and guayaberas (traditional tailored men's cotton shirts). Well-known franchise restaurants and open-air bars make the malls popular destinations by day or night.

Bargain hunters should head to Ciudad Cancun on the mainland, where outdoor markets line the east side of Avenida Tulum (be aware that although prices may be lower there, the quality may be, too). There also are several nice shops along Avenida Yaxchilan. Vendors may not accept credit cards, but even if they do, you often get a better price with cash. Almost all stores take U.S. dollars as well as pesos—prices often are marked in both currencies or just U.S. dollars.

Shopping Hours: Generally Monday-Saturday 9 am-9 pm. Some stores may close for several hours in the early afternoon, and some, especially malls, are open on Sunday.

Day Trips

To Chichen Itza. This World Heritage Site sits in the middle of the northern Yucatan Peninsula, southwest of Cancun. It contains a variety of buildings built between the fifth and 13th centuries. Although some, and perhaps all, were the product of the Maya, some structures were influenced by the Itzaes. Intricate, graceful stone carvings are well-preserved, and some of the sculpture that is shaded from the sun still shows traces of color. The 79-ft-/24-m-tall, pyramid-shaped Temple of Kukulkan, or El Castillo, dominates the site. About 125 mi/200 km from Cancun, Chichen Itza is accessible by car, bus or air. Tours usually include transportation and a guide. If you want to avoid the crowds, plan to visit the ruins early in the morning before tour buses arrive or late in the afternoon after they leave. Daily 8 am-5 pm. Entrance fee US$9, which includes a light-and-sound show at 7 or 8 pm.

To Isla Mujeres. This easygoing island is half the size of Cancun Island and has long been a haven for divers, anglers, escapists and adventurers. Located 8 mi/13 km off the northeastern tip of Cancun, it can be reached by regular ferry service from Cancun for a day of snorkeling or for exploring by rented bicycle, golf cart or motor scooter. The beaches north of town are popular hangouts for swimmers and sunbathers. The island's only town is crammed with souvenir shops, but a few excellent folk-art boutiques sell high-quality pottery, wood carvings and weavings. Garrafon Park at the southern tip of the island offers a variety of activities including snorkeling, guided nature walks and zip-lining. There is also a modern-sculpture garden at the southern tip of the island, an old lighthouse you can climb and a museum in what was once the keeper's cottage. Garrafon reef has been badly damaged by snorkelers, but it is now protected and efforts are being made to restore it.

To Cozumel. This popular resort island is less developed than Cancun but has the same crystalline water. Located about 40 mi/65 km to the south, it is close to the second-longest barrier reef in the world, making it a paradise for divers and snorkelers. The calmer water on the west side is good for swimming, and the deserted beaches to the east have white sand but rougher surf—beautiful but not good for swimming. Cozumel can be reached by plane from Cancun or by taking the ferry from Playa del Carmen, a resort town an hour south of Cancun.

To Maya communities. Alltournative, an award-winning ecotourism outfit dedicated to preserving the Mayan heritage, offers unique, low-impact excursions to isolated Maya communities. Once there, visitors can swim and snorkel in cenotes (ancient, underground rivers), ride a zip line across lakes, rappel, kayak and interact with villagers, who prepare a typical lunch for the visitors. One tour takes in the ruins at Coba. Around US$115 per tour. Vans pick up tourists in Cancun. Phone 984-873-2073. http://www.alltournative.com.

To Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve. Located near Tulum, Sian Ka'an is the largest protected area in Mexico—more than 1 million acres/40,500 hectares—and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its name means "the place where the sky is born." The site combines ecologically pristine reefs, wetlands and tropical forests, as well as archaeological sites going back 2,300 years. It is home to more than 350 species of birds and many other animals. Cancun-based EcoColors offers a variety of one-day tours to Sian Ka'an. US$109-$175. Phone 884-3667 or 884-9214. http://www.ecotravelmexico.com.

To Tulum. Tulum is about 80 mi/130 km south of Cancun on Highway 307. When the Spaniards first arrived from the sea they thought the city was Eldorado, as the setting sun turned the buildings a golden color. Although small compared with the other archaeological sites, Tulum is the only major Mayan city next to the sea. The buildings don't rival Chichen Itza's in size or number, and most have been roped off to prevent damage by the hordes of visitors. However, Tulum's seaside setting is unforgettable. A beach at the foot of the ruins adds to the picture-postcard quality of the area. Buses from Cancun drop passengers off at the turnoff to the ruins, which lie less than 0.5 mi/1 km east of the highway. Daily 8 am-5 pm. Entrance fee is US$9.

To Coba. If you have time and feel adventurous, take the inland highway branching off Highway 307 near Tulum and head for this mysterious Mayan city, thought to have once been the commercial hub of the Maya empire in the northern Yucatan. Mostly unexcavated and covered by jungle, the site is crisscrossed with limestone-paved roads built by the ancient Maya. It has some of the tallest pyramids and temples in the region. Dress for hiking and take water and insect repellent. Coba is much less crowded than Tulum. Bicycles are available for hire just inside the main gate and provide an excellent way of exploring the site. It is located about 105 mi/167 km southeast of Cancun. Daily 8 am-5 pm. Entrance fee US$4.

Local Tours

Cancun is an ideal center for exploring the Riviera Maya and Yucatan. A variety of operators run boat tours to the offshore islands of Isla Mujeres and Cozumel. By coach, you can take day trips to all of the attractions as far south as Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve and west to Chichen Itza. Multiday trips are also available and are an excellent value for the money. The two-day excursion to Chichen Itza and Uzmal takes in both of those ancient cities and includes short stops at the Spanish colonial cities of Valladolid and the Yucatan capital Merida.

Day By Day

We suggest a minimum of four nights in Cancun, even if all you plan to do is lie on the beach. (There's a lot of beach to lounge on—and it is irresistible.) Add one to two more days if you plan to visit other islands or ruins.

Day 1—Arrive and spend some time lying on the beach in front of your hotel. Later, spend some time strolling and window-shopping before having dinner.

Day 2—Take a day trip to Isla Mujeres. Head out to the Forum by the Sea shopping mall at night for some grand people-watching and grab dinner at one of its restaurants.

Day 3—Scuba divers may want to head to Playa del Carmen to catch an early ferry to Cozumel, where the diving is spectacular. (Check with the Cozumel dive shops in advance to be sure they have a dive trip scheduled after your ferry arrives.) Nondivers can stay in Cancun to shop, enjoy the beach or take a ride in the Sub Sea Explorer. At night, take in the scene at one of the dance clubs.

Day 4—If you've got a keen interest in ruins, take a day trip to Chichen Itza. Another option is to mix visiting ruins with some other sightseeing by renting a car or taking the bus to Tulum and then making a leisurely visit to Xcaret or Playa del Carmen.

Day 5—Depart.

Day Plans

To help you make the most of your time in Cancun, we've designed three different itineraries.

Day Plans

PLAN A

Sand, Shops and a Show

You can sun first and then shop, or vice versa. We'd sun first, in the morning, when the rays aren't so intense. For a safe swim, choose the beaches along the northern coast, facing the Bahia de Mujeres. If you prefer a public beach, Playa Tortugas is a short taxi or bus ride from the convention-center bus stop.

When you've had enough sun and surf, try one of the casual restaurants at the Punta Cancun dining district, next to the Cancun Convention Center, or dine at El Caribeno in the InterContinental Presidente for lunch. If you plan to spend the rest of your day shopping, try the Plaza La Isla mall, which is full of local and international boutiques, shops and restaurants.

For those who will be in town for the evening, we suggest dinner and the folklore show at El Mexicano. The restaurant offers classical regional dishes and entertainment by mariachis and dancers.

PLAN B

Watersports and Cancun City

In the morning, arrange your favorite watersport. If you're fascinated by what's beneath the water, you'll want to try snorkeling at the southern end of the island near Parque Nizuc (most of the resorts offer daily tours). If it is a calm day, take a glass-bottomed boat to a nearby coral reef. Experienced sailboarders will want to head for Playa Tortugas, the public beach on the north coast of the island. You can rent equipment and take lessons there.

After you've spent a couple of hours in the water, you may want to change out of your wet swimsuit and catch a bus to Cancun City (it costs less than US$1 each way). You can easily spend a few hours browsing the colorful markets along Avenida Tulum in the more typically Mexican part of the city. At meal times, the smell of grilled meats and the sounds of strolling mariachi bands beckon diners to the many sidewalk restaurants lining the avenue.

PLAN C

Cancun's Maya Past

If you want an introduction to Mayan ruins before visiting Chichen Itza, Tulum or Coba, take a bus or a cab to the Mayan ruins of El Rey, near the south end of the Cancun Hotel Zone across from the Hilton. The site includes a few platforms, two plazas and a small pyramid.

You could have lunch at one of the restaurants in the Hilton or head north on Boulevard Kukulcan to La Dolce Vita. (The views and relaxed ambience at this Italian cafe make it worth an extra stop.) Spend the rest of your day lazing on the beach or enjoying your favorite watersports.

Dining Overview

As you might expect in a town full of upscale resorts, all kinds of international foods are available—haute cuisine as well as Chicago-style pizza and ribs. And wherever there are tourists, expect the usual U.S. franchises. Although restaurants are good in Cancun, few if any could fairly be described as gourmet.

A late dinner is often the high point of the day (usually starting around 9-10 pm). Be sure to taste some Yucatecan specialties such as pollo pibil or cochinita pibil—outstanding dishes of chicken or suckling pig in a rich achiote (annatto seed) sauce, wrapped in banana leaves and baked in a clay oven. Vegetarians will enjoy papadzules, tacos stuffed with boiled eggs and covered in pumpkin-seed mole. Fresh seafood, such as shrimp, fish and especially Caribbean lobster, is always an outstanding choice. Seviche—fish marinated in lime juice—is a local specialty.

The neighborhood around the convention center has the greatest concentration of restaurants on the island. Youth-oriented cafes and well-known chains are found in the many malls along Boulevard Kukulcan, especially at Forum by the Sea. Some hotels have exceptional specialty restaurants and often vie with other resorts to lure their guests away. Those who want to dine "where the locals go" find many choices in Ciudad Cancun or on the beach under thatched palapas. This is where you'll often find the best dining deals.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on dinner for one, not including tax, tip or drinks: $ = less than US$9; $$ = US$9-$18; $$$ = US$19-$44; $$$$ = more than US$44.

Etiquette

Since passage of the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA), Mexico has become an increasingly common destination for international business travelers. Nonetheless, the country's interesting and enjoyable traditions have not been diminished by the increased business traffic: The Mexican people and their way of life may well prove the most memorable part of your visit.

Appointments—Having a local contact who can put you in touch with the right people is a big advantage. Set your appointments at least a couple of weeks in advance, if possible. Punctuality is expected, but not strictly adhered to, though as a visitor, you should be on time. For dinner parties and other somewhat social occasions, plan to show up about 30 minutes after the announced time.

Personal Introductions—Handshakes are the typical greeting between men. Maintain direct eye contact but not too intensely. When members of the opposite sex meet, the woman should extend her hand to initiate the greeting. Titles are important, and the title "Doctor" is used for those with advanced university degrees. Last names with the appropriate Spanish title are used. If your acquaintance has a professional title, you will learn it when introduced; if not, senor (male), senora (married female) and senorita (unmarried female) are appropriate. The title and the person's last name should be used until you are instructed otherwise. Note that it is typical for Mexicans to have two surnames, one from their father and one from their mother. The father's surname will be given first during the introduction, and that's the name that is used to address or speak of the person. Thus, "Senor Mario Sanchez Benitez" would be addressed as "Senor Sanchez." Mexicans warm quickly to friendships. Your acquaintances are as likely to hug on a second meeting as they are to shake your hand. This hug is called the abrazo and is common with both male and female acquaintances, although the hug may be accompanied by a kiss on the cheek between two women and a pat on the back between two men.

Negotiating—Business in Mexico runs at a slower pace than elsewhere in North America and is open and relaxed. Typically, junior executives have very little authority, so endeavor to meet with people at as high a level as possible. Relationships are very important to the decision-making process, so spend time getting to know your associates and allowing them to get to know you. Mexicans typically dislike open disagreement, but they do like to negotiate.

Business Entertaining—Mexicans love to entertain and take pride in doing so. Typically, your host will pay, but you should offer to do so and, when refused, insist on paying "next time." Then, be sure to do so. If invited to an acquaintance's home, don't plan on discussing business: It's an opportunity to socialize.

Body Language—Conversations may take place at close quarters. Expect polite conversational touching. Refrain from placing your hands on your hips, as this can be perceived as an aggressive stance. Keeping your hands in your pockets is also bad form.

Conversation—Learn some Spanish phrases well—it will be appreciated. Be inquisitive about Mexican culture. Do not discuss travelers' health issues such as worries about drinking the water. Don't use the term "North American" to refer to someone from the U.S.: Mexicans consider themselves North Americans, as well.

Other Information—You are not likely to encounter many women at the higher levels of Mexican business. However, women can and do conduct business in the country, though they may on occasion encounter some gender-based resistance.

Dress—Dress conservatively, particularly in business situations or if visiting a church.

Personal Safety

Crime—particularly theft—does occasionally occur in Cancun, but some commonsense precautions should help keep you out of trouble. Be cautious where you walk at night, especially on the beach and in Ciudad Cancun. Remember that inebriated tourists make inviting targets for thieves. Avoid leaving valuables unattended. This is especially true in regard to rental cars: Take anything of value with you when you leave the car or lock such items in the trunk. Keep your doors locked when parked. In recent years, drugs have become more available in Cancun, but the penalty for possession remains severe and police do arrest tourists.

Canada and the U.S. maintain consulates in Cancun with limited staff and hours. However, should you need assistance, head to the third floor at Plaza Caracol, in the Hotel Zone, where both are located. U.S. phone 883-1372. Canada phone 883-3360.

Always take someone with you when you withdraw money from an ATM. If you lose your way downtown, don't wander around—take a taxi to a familar part of town (it will cost you all of US$2 and keep you from ending up in a dangerous neighborhood). Avoid Avenida Lopez Perillo: It's dangerous and there's nothing for tourists there.

During spring break, fights between students and local residents can flare up. If this occurs, move away from the area of the fight as quickly as possible.

For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

Health

Water served in restaurants at major hotels is purified (agua purificada), but it's a good idea to ask the concierge or hotel staff to be sure. Otherwise, drink bottled water, which is widely available, or other prepackaged drinks. It's also wise to stick to the tourist hotels and restaurants for food—don't eat anything from street vendors and stay away from ice and uncooked foods.

Cancun has adequate hospitals, all of which have at least a few English-speaking doctors on staff. Good hotels also have English-speaking doctors on call at all times. To be safe, take along a sufficient supply of any medications you may need. If you get sick, medicines are available from several pharmacies in Cancun. Some painkillers and other medicines will require a prescription, although antibiotics often don't. In an emergency, go straight to the hospital.

For more information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

Disabled Advisory

Mexico is beginning to provide more facilities for visitors with physical limitations, but such facilities are not widespread. The airport and a few international hotels, especially newer properties, have been designed to accommodate individuals with disabilities, but most restaurants, sidewalks and other attractions still present challenges. Cancun also has no buses with retractable stairs that allow access to wheelchairs. The good news is that Xcaret now has special beach buggies for the wheelchair-bound.

Dos & Don'ts

Do feel free to bargain. In fact, it's expected in most markets and street stalls (though not in Cancun's ritzy shopping malls and small boutiques). A good way to start is to offer half of what is asked, then work toward the middle. But don't bargain for something unless you really want it: It's considered rude not to buy once your price has been accepted.

Do be aware that high season begins around 15 December and continues through Easter. Cancun is very popular with Mexican vacationers during the Christmas and Easter holidays—reservations are suggested a year in advance.

Do take time to explore the Riviera Maya south of Cancun as well as inland destinations; the Yucatan Peninsula is one of Mexico's most fascinating regions.

Don't buy souvenirs made from endangered species such as turtles, crocodiles, coral and jaguars.

Don't enter churches wearing shorts or other skimpy attire.

Don't cart away anything—not even a pebble—from archaeological sites. It's illegal to do so in Mexico.

Hotel Overview

Cancun has more than 30,000 hotel rooms. Accommodations range from lavish resorts to high-rise hotels to more modest lodgings. Condominiums, time-shares and all-inclusive resorts are abundant in Cancun and along the coast, but there are few budget offerings, except for in the urban downtown areas. Be aware that as new hotels go up—and upscale travelers flock to them—the quality of others often deteriorates. Following the hurricanes of 2005 and 2006, many resorts were renovated and updated, giving the resort a fresh new face. By spring of 2008, evidence of the storms was completely gone and the city is operating at 100%. Many of the newer resorts lie south of the 10-kilometer mark, where the surf tends to be rougher. These properties, however, are closer to the airport.

Prices fluctuate according to the season: Mid-December to mid-April is high season, with peak times at Christmas and New Year's. In general, rooms in Ciudad Cancun are more reasonable than those at the beach, but beachfront hotels may offer specials that make them the better deal. Many hotels in Cancun offer air and hotel packages that lower costs significantly.

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S.

Beginning 1 June 2009, passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda.

Canadian citizens need proof of citizenship—either a passport or a certified copy of a birth certificate accompanied by photo ID (we recommend a passport). All visitors must fill out a tourist card. The Mexican government charges a tourism tax of US$20 for all visitors except cruise-ship passengers and a departure tax of about US$18, though both are usually included in your airline-ticket price. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure.

Population: 526,701.

Languages: Spanish, Mayan, English.

Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic).

Time Zone: 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-6 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the first Sunday in April until the last Sunday in October.

Voltage Requirements: 110 volts.

Telephone Codes: 52, country code; 998,city code;

Currency Exchange

It is quite possible to visit Cancun without using Mexican currency. U.S. dollars are accepted everywhere, and prices are often quoted in U.S. currency. If you obtain money from an ATM in Cancun, you will receive U.S. dollars or pesos according to your choice. If you plan to travel to other parts of the Yucatan, pesos may prove more useful (though U.S. dollars are widely accepted in Cozumel, Playa del Carmen and other resort areas). Always take small denominations of pesos to the more rural parts of the Yucatan because it's often tricky to cash traveler's checks or large bills.

Be careful using ATMs: ATM customers are inviting targets for thieves, although muggings are infrequent in Cancun. If you need to change foreign currency or traveler's checks, the best exchange rates are found at banks in Ciudad Cancun; the worst rates are at the airport or at hotels. Banks are generally open Monday-Friday 9 am-1:30 pm. Some are open on Saturday as well. Privately owned exchange booths or casas de cambio in Ciudad Cancun and at shopping centers in the Hotel Zone offer slightly lower rates than banks. However, exchange booths are open longer hours and seldom have lines. Most will exchange both U.S. and Canadian dollars as well as traveler's checks.

Taxes

The government of Mexico charges a value-added sales tax of 15% on virtually all transactions in the state of Quintana Roo. In most cases, it's included in the price quoted. Visitors cannot obtain refunds on any taxes.

Tipping

Plan to arrive in Cancun with 10-20 US$1 bills for tipping. US$2 per bag is sufficient for an airport porter or hotel bellhop. Taxi drivers don't expect a tip. In restaurants, 15% is the general rule.

Weather

Any time is great for a visit to Cancun. The summer months are warmer, with highs in the upper 80s F/20s C, but the sea breeze keeps you cool. It seldom rains in the winter. Hurricane season runs June-November, and that's when rain is most likely. Cancun is especially popular in March and April as a spring-break destination for college students from the U.S. Mexican tourists flock to Cancun a week before and after Christmas and the week of Easter. Make reservations early for those times.

Weather Forecast

Weather forecast not available at this time.

What to Wear

The dress code in Cancun might be described as elegantly casual. Beachwear is acceptable at the beach and pool but not elsewhere. It is best to cover up bare skin, or if wearing shorts and a T-shirt, use plenty of high-factor sunscreen.

Evening wear will depend on the venue and can vary from shorts or jeans and T-shirts to smart casual to elegant. Many of the all-inclusive resorts have one or two gourmet restaurants with a dress code requiring closed-toe shoes, long pants and collared shirts for men.

Telephone

For both local and long-distance calls in and around Cancun, you are charged by the minute. Local calls cost a few cents, but long distance is usually expensive. Calls at hotels are the most convenient and therefore quite costly: Service charges are always high. (Hotels usually warn guests that international calls cost a lot.) Least expensive are those made from public pay phones, most of which require a prepaid phone card. You can buy phone cards at newsstands, malls and some shops for about US$3 for 12 minutes or US$5 for 20 minutes to call within Mexico. Long-distance calls to the U.S. or Canada are around US$0.45 per minute. Beware of phones that allow you to charge calls to a major credit card: Rates are always exorbitant. Canadians can call home using the Canada Direct service, which will put them in contact with a Canadian telephone operator. The toll-free Canada Direct numbers for Mexico are 800-123-0200 or 800-021-1994. Although using a cell phone with a roaming agreement is the most convenient way to call, bear in mind that the charges are high. Most U.S.-based carriers have good coverage in the region.

Internet Access

Internet cafes are widely available. You'll find them in most of the malls and throughout Ciudad Cancun. Usually there will be one or two within a block or two of any hotel. Most of the four- and five-star hotels have Internet access, but at a price. Budget hotels also tend to have Internet access in the foyer. Prices for computer time vary, depending on the area. In the Hotel Zone, prices range US$2-$5 for 15 minutes. In the downtown area, prices are US$1-$2 per hour.

Public wireless access (for a fee) can be found mainly at the airport and in Cuidad Cancun at the Plaza Las Americas, Avenida Tulum between SM 4 and SM 9. Try Sanborn's and Infonet.

There are several Web sites with continually updated lists of Internet cafes. One of the best is http://www.world66.com/northamerica/mexico/cancun/internetcafes.

Newspapers & Magazines

The Miami Herald publishes a special Cancun edition. It's available for free at hotel newsstands. Some U.S. newspapers and magazines also are sold in hotel newsstands and in Sanborn's stores.

Cancun Tips, a pocket-size guide published twice a year, is distributed free at the airport and in hotels and has been the best source for entertainment information in Cancun for many years. It is also available online at http://www.cancuntips.com.mx.

Transportation

Most of Cancun is too spread out to be considered walkable, except for the cluster of hotels, restaurants and shopping malls around the Convention Center. Many visitors take the bus, which stops frequently along Boulevard Kukulcan and is a great bargain (less than US$1 for each fare). Taxis also cruise the island's main road. They don’t have meters so visitors are advised to agree on a price before the ride starts. Cars and bicycles are available for rent. Traffic is on the right side of the road.

Ferries make the short trip to Isla Mujeres several times a day. Intercity buses connect Cancun with other points on the Yucatan Peninsula, including all of the major Mayan sites. Cozumel can be reached by plane or by ferry from the town of Playa del Carmen, which is an hour's drive south of Cancun.

Local officials are considering a bypass of the Party Zone that would connect the boulevard near the Presidente InterContinental Hotel to the road near Senor Frogs, but construction has not yet begun. The road from Cancun to Playa del Carmen, Highway 307, is now four lanes and construction continues to widen the road all the way to Tulum.

Car

A rental car is unnecessary in Cancun, although it is a convenient, if pricey, way to reach more distant attractions. You may be able to get a better deal by reserving a car in advance from your country of origin. Rates start at about US$40 a day, depending on the model. Be sure to check the condition of the car before you take it and make sure Mexican liability insurance (seguros) is included (comprehensive coverage, about US$35 per day, should be seriously considered). If you have an accident without insurance, you must settle the claim there or go to jail until it is resolved. If your credit card covers collision and theft insurance, make sure that the coverage is valid in Mexico.

Driving on the island is easy because it has only one main avenue and hotels generally offer free parking. Ciudad Cancun can be confusing, and parking is scarce there. Speed limits are occasionally enforced outside of the cities, and speed bumps (topes) are used to slow traffic coming into populated areas. Driving is on the right. (Note that gas stations don't accept credit cards. Also, an attendant pumps your gas for you, and you are expected to tip.)

Ferry

There are two ways to get to Isla Mujeres from Cancun itself—the regular ferry and the NautiTaxi. The most common—and cheapest—way to reach Isla Mujeres, however, is from Puerto Juarez, which is about 5 mi/8 km north of Cancun.

Taxi

Though cheap when compared with taxis in many developed countries, the cost of cab rides has increased and can add up if you use them a lot. There are no meters, but prices are based loosely on distance. (From the Hotel Zone to downtown costs roughly US$6-$15.) The minimum fare in the Hotel Zone is US$6. Always negotiate the fare before getting into the car. Most hotels post approximate taxi fares near their entrance—be sure to consult them before you start your haggling. Most drivers speak some English, and fluent English-speaking drivers can be hired by the hour. Though it's convenient to take a cab right from the hotel door, you can save some money by catching a roving cab on the road outside the hotel.

Other

Bicycles can be rented for about US$2 an hour or US$10 a day. If you have a bike, be sure to lock it when you make a stop: Theft can be a problem.

Calendar

A vacation in Cancun feels like a never-ending holiday, but if you check the calendar, you'll find a few days where the party is an official one. Many of Mexico's celebrations recognize Catholic saints, and festivities often focus on the church. Secular events run the gamut from fishing tournaments to jazz festivals. Cancun has no major professional sports teams and few performing-arts companies, but there are weekly bullfights and folk-dance performances every weeknight. Also included in this calendar are some events in nearby Cozumel and Playa del Carmen.

For detailed information about upcoming events in the Cancun area, contact the Cancun Convention and Visitors Bureau. Phone 846-531. Toll-free 800-462-2628. http://www.gocancun.com.

To call any of the phone numbers listed in this calendar from outside Mexico, you must first dial your country's international access code, then Mexico's country code, 52, followed by Cancun's city code, 998, followed by the number listed. When dialing from within Cancun, dial the numbers as they appear.

Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.

January, 2009

1 Jan—New Year's Day Public holiday.

6 Jan—Epiphany Public holiday. Restaurants serve a cake known as rosca de reyes, which contains a tiny doll. Whoever finds this trinket in their slice of cake is expected to invite everyone at the table to a supper of tamales and hot chocolate on 2 February to mark Candlemas, the end of the Christmas season in Mexico.

Throughout January—Bullfights Weekly bullfights take place year-round at the Plaza de Toros, Paseo Kukulkajn. Tickets are sold through hotel travel desks. For information, call 884-8248 or 848-372. Continues through late December 2010

February, 2009

2 Feb—Constitution Day Public holiday celebrating the anniversary of the signing of the Mexican constitution in 1917.

21-24 Feb—Carnival The week preceding Ash Wednesday is celebrated throughout Mexico with dancing, parades and floats. It's especially festive on Cozumel.

Throughout February—Bullfights Weekly bullfights take place year-round at the Plaza de Toros, Paseo Kukulkajn. Tickets are sold through hotel travel desks. For information, call 884-8248 or 848-372. Continues through late December 2010

March, 2009

21 Mar—Benito Juarez's Birthday Public holiday honoring Benito Juarez, a much-revered 19th-century president.

Throughout March—Bullfights Weekly bullfights take place year-round at the Plaza de Toros, Paseo Kukulkajn. Tickets are sold through hotel travel desks. For information, call 884-8248 or 848-372. Continues through late December 2010

April, 2009

10-13 Apr—Easter Holidays Good Friday and Easter Sunday are two of the biggest holidays in Mexico. Cancun is often crowded with Mexican tourists this week. All banks and businesses are closed.

Late April—Fiesta del Cedral An annual agricultural festival on Cozumel to celebrate the first Catholic Mass in Mexico. Activities include a fair, children's rides and dancing. Usually held the last weekend of April and into May. Continues through early May

Throughout April—Bullfights Weekly bullfights take place year-round at the Plaza de Toros, Paseo Kukulkajn. Tickets are sold through hotel travel desks. For information, call 884-8248 or 848-372. Continues through late December 2010

May, 2009

Early May—Fiesta del Cedral An annual agricultural festival on Cozumel to celebrate the first Catholic Mass in Mexico. Activities include a fair, children's rides and dancing. Usually held the last weekend of April and into May. Concludes early May

1 May—Labor Day Public holiday. Most banks and businesses are closed.

5 May—Cinco de Mayo Public holiday that marks the defeat of the French by Mexican troops in 1862. It's actually a minor holiday in Mexico, but is much celebrated by Mexicans abroad. Cancun lights up with fireworks and parades.

22-25 May—Cancun Jazz Festival This annual festival features nightly performances by top international jazz musicians in various venues throughout the Cancun area. For information, call the Convention and Visitors Bureau at 846-531, or toll-free 800-462-2628.

Throughout May—Bullfights Weekly bullfights take place year-round at the Plaza de Toros, Paseo Kukulkajn. Tickets are sold through hotel travel desks. For information, call 884-8248 or 848-372. Continues through late December 2010

June, 2009

1 Jun—Navy Day Fishing Tournament A prestigious annual fishing tournament held in Playa del Carmen.

29 Jun—San Pedro y San Pablo Cozumel celebrates this religious festival in honor of St. Peter and St. Paul with fair rides, food vendors, handicraft stalls and more.

Throughout June—Bullfights Weekly bullfights take place year-round at the Plaza de Toros, Paseo Kukulkajn. Tickets are sold through hotel travel desks. For information, call 884-8248 or 848-372. Continues through late December 2010

July, 2009

Throughout July—Bullfights Weekly bullfights take place year-round at the Plaza de Toros, Paseo Kukulkajn. Tickets are sold through hotel travel desks. For information, call 884-8248 or 848-372. Continues through late December 2010

August, 2009

Throughout August—Bullfights Weekly bullfights take place year-round at the Plaza de Toros, Paseo Kukulkajn. Tickets are sold through hotel travel desks. For information, call 884-8248 or 848-372. Continues through late December 2010

September, 2009

16 Sep—Independence Day Public holiday celebrated throughout Mexico with grand parades. Most banks and businesses are closed.

29 Sep—Fiesta de San Miguel Cozumel holds a festival to commemorate St. Michael, the patron saint of San Miguel.

Throughout September—Bullfights Weekly bullfights take place year-round at the Plaza de Toros, Paseo Kukulkajn. Tickets are sold through hotel travel desks. For information, call 884-8248 or 848-372. Continues through late December 2010

October, 2009

Throughout October—Bullfights Weekly bullfights take place year-round at the Plaza de Toros, Paseo Kukulkajn. Tickets are sold through hotel travel desks. For information, call 884-8248 or 848-372. Continues through late December 2010

November, 2009

2 Nov—Dia de los Muertos All Souls' Day or Day of the Dead. The spirits of the dead return to Earth at this time and are welcomed by their families. Special alters are set up in cemeteries and families eat meals a the graves of their dead. Public holiday.

20 Nov—Anniversary of the Mexican Revolution Public holiday celebrating the outbreak of the Mexican Revolution in 1910.

Throughout November—Bullfights Weekly bullfights take place year-round at the Plaza de Toros, Paseo Kukulkajn. Tickets are sold through hotel travel desks. For information, call 884-8248 or 848-372. Continues through late December 2010

December, 2009

25 Dec—Christmas Public holiday.

Throughout December—Bullfights Weekly bullfights take place year-round at the Plaza de Toros, Paseo Kukulkajn. Tickets are sold through hotel travel desks. For information, call 884-8248 or 848-372. Continues through late December 2010