We've heard it said that Ensenada, Mexico, is a city built around a bar. Although that's not true, Hussong's has enticed revelers to Ensenada since 1892—a date that's easy to believe once visitors see the legendary cantina's clapboard exterior and scarred wooden floors covered in sawdust. It's true that most tourist dollars are spent by U.S. partyers who drive south or arrive on cruise ships out of Southern California.
Another Ensenada attraction is the low-key and truly Mexican flavor of its reasonably priced restaurants, shops and hotels—all only 65 mi/105 km south of the U.S.-Mexico border.
Visitors soon find, however, that Ensenada isn't really a beach resort: The beach closest to Ensenada is a 15-minute drive away, and the most important occupant of the waterfront seawalk is a bustling fish market. But although downtown Ensenada doesn't have the pretty beach boardwalk of Puerto Vallarta or Mazatlan's "Golden Zone" of beaches and bars, Ensenada has all the earthy attraction and friendly people of an authentic Mexican town.
The lack of palm-lined coves and colonial architecture doesn't keep tourists away, however. Visitors to Ensenada can visit a cantina or sidewalk cafe and stroll through the market and adjoining seafood eateries. Tourists should stroll along Ensenada's main shopping district, Avenida Lopez Mateos, with its sidewalks, refurbished storefronts and ornate streetlamps. Visitors to Ensenada can also enjoy good wine from gold-green Guadalupe Valley outside the city.
Location
The three-berth cruise-ship dock is in the center of the downtown waterfront. Cruise Port Village, a multipurpose center at the foot of the dock, has a few jewelry, craft and liquor stores, plus tour stands. A money exchange service (
casa de cambio) is just outside the Village along with some small restaurants.
You can easily walk to Ensenada's most interesting sights from the pier. If you're not up to walking, taxis await passengers at the foot of the pier, as do calandrias (horse-drawn carriages) that trot along the busy avenues. A tourist-information office is on the waterfront across the street from the Village, and there's always an English-speaking staff person on duty. Monday-Friday 9 am-8 pm, Saturday 9 am-1 pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm. Blvd. Costero 1477. Phone 646-172-3022.
Shore Excursions
Consider signing up for the excursions offered by your ship. They may not be the least expensive way to see Ensenada, but you won't have to spend time making arrangements yourself—and you won't have to worry about missing the ship. Shore excursions (and their prices) vary from cruise line to cruise line. Some may include lunch and drinks or additional stops, although others may not. (Fees for children range from half price to full price.) Check with your ship's shore-excursion staff or your travel agent for additional information.
Diving or snorkeling off Punta Banda will put you in touch with the area's rich waters that harbor all sorts of undersea life—from reefs to colorful fish. Following a morning exploring the ocean, get some lunch in one of the typical seafood eateries near the waterfront, with time later for shopping along the Costera.
If your ship overnights in port, plan on signing up for a festive Fiesta Mexicana in the evening or dining in one of Ensenada's prime restaurants. Spend the day with a City Tour, then a visit to Bufadora, lunch in a popular local restaurant and later shopping. You'll have time for a rest before dinner.
