Guatemala, often trumpeted by travel agencies and guide books as "the country of eternal spring," is one of the most-often listed travel destinations in Central America: the stunning Maya ruins at Tikal, the well-preserved colonial city of Antigua, a vibrant indigenous culture, active volcanoes, highland lakes and exotic wildlife are its chief draws. But the savvy traveler knows that traveling to these gems and safely enjoying them be a challenge in Guatemala, one of the poorest countries in the Western Hemisphere.
From the 1950s until the mid-1990s, political unrest, followed by the country's bloodiest civil war, were deterrents to travelers—though many of the major attractions were far from the areas of fighting. Happily, since the war ended in 1996, there has been a spate of improvements in tourist accommodations and infrastructure. Luxury hotels have been built, roads have been upgraded and cruise-ship passengers have begun arriving again at the country's two modern ports of Santo Tomas and Puerto Quetzal.
At the same time, despite these improvements, a continuing high crime rate—including some violent attacks targeting travelers (and those wishing to adopt children in particular)—and endemic poverty have made Guatemala at best unpredictable and potentially dangerous.
We still think Guatemala is an exceptional destination, but we don't take the risks lightly. We urge all visitors to be extremely cautious, and we strongly recommend, at least for the present, that you stick to the major tourist destinations and see them on a tour organized by a reputable operator. For added protection, a security escort may be booked for tourist groups through the INGUAT, the Guatemalan tourist institute. Though the vast majority of travelers who venture off the beaten trail enjoy their trips without incident, keep in mind that the problems that do occur generally happen away from large groups or well-traveled areas.
Plenty of tours are available that take in the best of Guatemala. One destination that shouldn't be missed is Tikal—the greatest of the ruins left from the age of the ancient Maya, whose accomplishments in the fields of architecture, mathematics and astronomy are a source of national pride and universal awe. In fact, we think Tikal (and a trip to the nearby island of Flores) is one of the most impressive ruins in the world, in a class with places such as Machu Picchu in Peru or the Valley of the Kings in Egypt. Tikal, with its complex of more than 30 different sites, is alone worth a trip to Guatemala.
But you needn't stop there. Guatemala's ecotourism opportunities (especially bird-watching and forest trekking), continue to increase, particularly in the areas surrounding the natural beauty of the Rio Dulce and Lake Atitlan—considered by many as the world's most beautiful lake—as well as the international-traveler base in the colorful, colonial town of Antigua.
Location
Guatemala's primary Caribbean port is Santo Tomas de Castilla (often referred to as Santo Tomas), situated in an inlet southwest of the industrial port of Puerto Barrios. Most cruise ships tie up at Santo Tomas' modern pier, which is often busy with cargo ships as well. A small market has been set up on the dock so that cruise passengers can buy local handicrafts. The port isn't really geared for tourists yet—don't expect to find a tourist information booth or waiting taxi drivers. And there isn't much to do nearby—Santo Tomas itself, formerly known as Matias de Galvez, has about 7,500 people. (The Santo Tomas port was built to replace the aging dock at Puerto Barrios, built in the early 1900s as a loading dock for bananas.)
If you don't sign up for a shore excursion, you can take a complimentary shuttle boat across the lagoon to the Best Western Cayos del Diablo Beach Hotel. You can lounge on the beach (don't expect much) or take a short guided walk on a jungle trail near the hotel for about US$5 per person. The hotel has a pool, as well as a bar and a restaurant.
Just north of Santo Tomas is Livingston (known locally as La Buga), a lively Caribbean-style village of brightly painted buildings that can be reached only by boat. Settled originally by Garifuna blacks who had escaped slavery, the town is rich in both history and culture. A few small ships stop there as part of an excursion up the Rio Dulce to Lake Izabal.
Guatemala's major Pacific port for cruise ships is tiny Puerto Quetzal, about halfway between Mexico and El Salvador on what is often called Guatemala's Pacific watershed. (Because of the area's proximity to the volcanic hills in the interior, you'll see long stretches of black-sand beaches.) Puerto Quetzal has replaced the seedier-looking Puerto San Jose, but nonetheless it isn't really geared for tourists either—the dock is used mainly for unloading cargo when cruise ships aren't around. There are no nearby attractions, except for a small beach—a better one can be found at Balneario Likin, an upscale resort and residential complex to the east that is popular with wealthy Guatemalans.
Shore Excursions
Cruise ships visit Guatemalan ports on either the Pacific or Caribbean coast, but air service within Guatemala has made it possible to enjoy many of the same shore excursions from either side of the country. Most cruise lines offer a tour to the ruins of Tikal in north-central Guatemala and a tour to the Copan ruins in northern Honduras. To go to either, you must travel from the port by chartered plane. Advance reservations are required—sign up early (especially for Tikal tours), as space is limited.
Other shore excursions visit Chichicastenango—if your ship stops in Puerto Quetzal on a Thursday or Sunday, don't miss the chance to attend the liveliest market in Guatemala. Another tour, which is usually offered only by ships stopping at Puerto Quetzal, includes a visit to Antigua and Guatemala City, definitely two must-see destinations. Other options include trips to the quaint villages and beautiful scenery at Lake Atitlan, the Maya ruins at Quirigua and the jungle environment of Rio Dulce. Increasingly, bird-watching and coastal trekking excursions are also offered in conjunction with cruise lines.
