Nutmeg ice cream. Nutmeg cheesecake. Nutmeg sprinkled over rum punch. There's even a nutmeg rub that's supposed to cure the common cold. Grenadians are nothing if not resourceful with the spice. And that's understandable: They grow one-third of the world's nutmeg.
But although you'll see (and smell) plenty of the glossy brown nuts in Grenada, there's more to this country than spices. St. George's, the capital city, is one of the prettiest ports in the region. Pastel-colored houses with red-tiled roofs perch on green slopes overlooking the bay, which includes a lagoon that's actually the collapsed crater of an extinct volcano. Then there's the intensely blue lake atop the rain forest in Grand Etang Park.
All of the islands that make up this nation have the languid charm of the Caribbean as it used to be. Although resort developers have discovered Grenada, only a small stretch of beach is given over to them. The rest of Grenada feels very local rather than touristy. Grenada was badly damaged by Hurricane Ivan in September 2004, but most hotels and services—including the new Melville Street Cruise Port Terminal—are now functioning.
Carriacou and Petite Martinique—the other two islands sometimes visited by travelers—are especially enticing for those who find even the leisurely pace of Grenada too hectic. A windjammer-type cruise or a yacht trip through the area is a good option: These are some of the finest sailing waters in the world.
Location
Cruise ships dock downtown in St. George's harbor off Carenage Road. The pier can accommodate two ships. The Melville Street Cruise Port there has been completed and is welcoming cruise passengers. The new jetty can accommodate two megaships at once, and there are two smaller jetties to accommodate tenders and water taxis. Passenger services include a visitor reception area with tourist information, duty-free shops, restaurants, a parking lot and a bus terminal.
A five-minute walk from the terminal around the horseshoe-shaped harbor takes you to the center of old St. George's, which is known as the Carenage (inner harbor). You can also walk to the city's main thoroughfare, known as the Esplanade—but it's a steep walk up and over a hill on a narrow sidewalk. Visitors will find plenty of taxis at the cruise-terminal entrance. The trip to Grand Anse Beach area is about US$10, and a bus to Grand Anse costs US$1-$2.25. The narrow Sendall Tunnel also connects the two parts of town by car or (very cautiously) on foot.
Shore Excursions
Consider signing up for the excursions offered by your ship. They may not be the least-expensive way to see the island, but you won't have to waste your limited time making arrangements yourself—and you won't have to worry about missing the ship. Shore excursions—and their prices—vary from cruise line to cruise line. Typical tours include exploring the island's rain forest and historic sites or swimming and snorkeling along the southwestern coast. Check with your ship's shore-excursion staff or your travel agent for additional information. Most cruise ships dock in Grenada for six to eight hours.
