A coastal ship from Cruise West, the Spirit of '98 is a 96-ton, 96-passenger U.S.-flagged ship named in honor of the renowned Klondike gold rush era in the Yukon Territory. Built in 1984, she had previous lives on the East Coast as the Pilgrim Belle, then as the Colonial Explorer and finally the Victorian Empress. Happily, she is now well settled with Cruise West. Handsomely modeled after early 20th-century coastal steamers, 192 ft in length with a beam of 40 ft, a draft of 9 ft, and a speed of 13 knots, she is one of only two Cruise West ships with an elevator. American officers command her youthful all-American crew of 26.
The original pioneering company, Arctic Alaska Travel Service, was launched in Fairbanks in 1946 by Chuck West, a WWII pilot who flew the Hump between India and China. He specialized in flightseeing, motorcoach, hotel and small ship bookings. The firm then became more simply known as Westours, and in 1971, West sold it to Holland America, which was interested in adding land tours to its Alaska cruise program. In 1973, Chuck West returned to the travel business with the creation of West Travel, which eventually became Alaska Sightseeing Cruise West and is now shortened to Cruise West. Chuck has since died and his son, Dick West, is now Chairman and Managing Director.
In 1986 the company bought its first cruise vessel, the 70-passenger Sheltered Seas, and over the years has assembled a fleet that numbers nine small ships, seven of them flying the U.S. flag and two foreign-registered. With the exception of the Pacific Explorer operating in Costa Rica and Panama, all the ships begin with the designation "Spirit of." The Spirit of Yorktown, along with the Spirit of Nantucket (now Spirit of Glacier Bay), were the most recent purchases, in January 2006.
Domestic cruising regions encompass much of coastal Alaska, the Pacific Northwest, Columbia-Snake rivers and California Wine Country, while non-U.S. destinations include Baja California and the Sea of Cortes, Costa Rica and Panama, and the Pacific Rim from Alaska to East Asia, Southeast Asia and the South Pacific.
Generally, passengers are older North Americans, though a few other English-speaking world clientele may find there way aboard. Many are travelers who have no interest in cruising aboard the big ships. Children are not generally part of the mix.
From May to the end of August, Spirit of '98 sails on 9-day one-way itineraries along the Inside Passage between Ketchikan and Juneau emphasizing wildlife sightings, close-up views of waterfalls, and a full day in Glacier Bay. Other destinations on this itinerary include Misty Fjord, Petersburg, Frederick Sound, Tracy Arm, Skagway and Haines. The schedule is a relaxed one, allowing the captain to reverse direction and sail along with a large school of dolphins or linger silently just offshore while brown bears feed just a few hundred feet away. May and September positioning 11-day voyages ply nearly the full length of the Inside Passage between Seattle and Juneau, including some days without port stops for those who like sea time. In Alaska, the optional excursions are more thorough. Complimentary shore excursions vary in quality depending on the cruising region, and pre- and post-cruise land packages are numerous, especially to Denali National Park. In April, September and October, the boat makes 7-day cruises from Portland, Oregon along the Columbia and Snake rivers as far up river as Hells Canyon and downstream to the Pacific Ocean at Astoria. All excursions are included in these programs. The onboard expedition leader and assistant are good to excellent, and local and National Park interpreters supplement, but the enrichment program is by no means as strong or professional as Lindblad's.
The interior decor recalls a Victorian steamer, though one with square wooden pillars trimmed with vertical strip mirrors, fanciful sconces, and a handsome mahogany bar in the forward observation lounge and below in the dining room. Indeed, the ship—with its straight stem, tall black funnel and rounded superstructure—is so photogenic she was chosen to play the turn-of-the century steamer used to carry Kevin Costner north to the Gold Rush in the film Wyatt Earp. Unlike many coastal cruise ships, this one has a quiet second lounge tucked away aft of the dining room.
Passengers dine at booth seating next to panoramic windows or at large round center tables. The dining room, appointed with interesting period furniture, serves a very good choice of entrees for a ship of this size. The meat, fish, pasta and vegetarian choices sometime come with Pacific Northwest accents. Jackets are rare except at the captain's dinner.
Onboard activities focus on nature talks, movies, board games and light musical entertainment. The sun deck has ample space for viewing, walking its circuit, also on the deck below, and lounging under an awning. The two pieces of exercise equipment see little action.
For a small ship, this vessel offers a surprising variety of roomy cabins, even within the same category. The 49 units are all outsides, and while air-conditioned, one can choose to allow fresh breezes through open drop windows, though some are too heavy to raise easily. All have desks with mirrors, TVs, radios, intercoms and adequate stowage. The baths are cramped. Cabin 309 is wheelchair-accessible. Some cabins open to a side promenade, making access to a reported sighting quick and easy. The exceptionally large two-room suite behind the bridge has picture windows, a sitting area with a card table, a minibar, a king bed and a tub. Chocolates and daily bulletins are placed on beds at turndown, and soothing wake-up calls sound half an hour before breakfast. The boat has both Internet and e-mail access. Cabin doors have no locks, but there has been no incidence of theft. (For the concerned, a safe is available at the purser's office.)
The Spirit of '98 is comfortable and atmospheric, fitting nicely into her surroudings. The line's reputation hinges on its emphasis on scenery, wildlife, history, local cultures, shoreside attractions, and conviviality on board. This is small ship cruising at its most attractive level. The ship does not operate in the winter months.
