The
Delta Queen is a National Landmark and has earned a spot on the National Register of Historic Places—a unique accolade in the cruising world. Built in 1927 and refurbished in 2006-2007, this 285-ft river boat thrashes along at a regal six mph. She plies the Midwestern rivers and Intracoastal Waterway from New Orleans, Galveston, Memphis, St. Louis, St. Paul, Pittsburgh, Chattanooga and Nashville on cruises lasting from 3 to 11 days. Because of her small size, she can travel many stretches of river and reach many places that the
American Queen and
Mississippi Queen cannot. The old-fashioned steam calliope above the paddlewheel signals the steamboat's arrival at town landings and locks, and often, locals and tourists flock to the river to watch her arrive and to exchange stories over the railings.
The Delta Queen is a genuine piece of Americana, originally designed for overnight passenger and freight service along the Sacramento River between San Francisco and the California state capital. After transporting troops in the Bay Area during World War II, she was towed to the Mississippi and converted to full-time service as a river-cruise boat. Not a fancy palace steamer like her tarted-up running mates, she is, however, the real McCoy, a wooden western-rivers steamboat. With her wooden superstructure and decks, this ship receives a special exemption from the U.S. Coast Guard, and the renewal comes up periodically. The next deadline is late 2008, and it is hoped that she will pass the inspection as she has done for many decades. TheDelta Queen became part of Majestic America Line in 2006.
The ship draws an older North American passenger who wants to see America and may not have much interest in sailing on the big oceangoing ships or traveling aboard a coach. Younger folks who have a passion for steamboats and American history come in smaller numbers but children are not a big part of the mix. Tipping is expected at the end of the cruise and goes directly to the staff.
In many ports, the sites are within walking distance, and if not the excursions are fairly priced. Most, excepting the embarkation and disembarkation ports, represent small-town America; some have seen better days and others successfully trade on past glories. The welcome is always a warm one and the DQ is a favorite guest in town. The antebellum homes along the Lower Mississippi are a real treat for first-timers and the river scenery is much better on the Upper Mississippi and the Upper Ohio. The levees tend to block the view inland where the river has been straightened for commercial barge navigation. River traffic offers a special interest for some. Many cruises have themes, such as Mark Twain, the Civil War and Dixieland.
The columned lower of two forward lounges is suitable for reading, playing cards and sipping tea. A wooden grand staircase with shiny brass steps (this boat has no elevator) rises to the Victorian-style Texas Lounge, which has a bar, daytime games, a singing pianist and a popcorn machine. Popping starts by 11 am. The riverlorian (river historian) holds forth here during the day. Dinner is at two sittings in a dark room with small side windows, and the American food has southern and Cajun embellishments. Try to secure a window table. After dinner, the lower dining room becomes a well-attended old-fashioned music hall featuring ragtime, Dixieland, jazz and blues. The small shop sells attractive steamboat souvenirs, books and clothing. Much daytime activity is outdoors, including kite flying and informal chats at the bow, known on this boat as the Front Porch of America. Two swings afford a lazy view forward. The engine room is open to view, and a visit reveals an eye-popping feast of brass and rhythmic machinery that turns the bright red paddlewheel. Some engineers are happy to explain the machinery which, they are wont to say, if properly maintained could last forever.
Most of the all-outside 87 staterooms are small (some are truly tiny) and plain, with limited places for stowing clothes, and functional baths. Cabin doors open to covered or open side decks with chairs positioned just outside. Watching the river from one of these decks is a favorite pastime. Some cabin doors have plaques indicating that Jimmy Carter, Helen Hayes and noted others have slept inside. Most of the best cabins feature stained-glass windows and open to the central Betty Blake Lounge, a portrait and memorabilia gallery dotted with overstuffed seating. Board games and the one TV are available here, and it's a splendid room for reading on a rainy day.
The Delta Queen provides a glimpse of a bygone America, and passengers and crew alike are fiercely loyal. Many of the former shun the larger cruise-ship-style riverboats in favor of this more genuine vessel, and many of the latter have been with the line for years. The DQ attracts casual, mature passengers, and some younger folks in the summer, who enjoy living a legend in good company.
