Completed in 1972, this cruise liner from Fred. Olsen Lines is a sleek, traditional ship that started life as the Royal Viking Star. She was enlarged to 28,613 tons and 674 ft with a new midsection in 1981, and then saw service as the Star Odyssey and Westward. Completely refurbished in 2005 and again in 2007, she now shows attractive fresh fabrics and furnishings. Norwegian-registered, she carries up to 807 passengers (including many returnees), Norwegian officers and an Asian crew of 350. Sailing her is a thoroughly British experience with Scandinavian overtones. Like her running mates, she caters largely to British vacationers.
Fred. Olsen is an old-line family firm that operates cruise ships for the British and ferry services in the Canary Islands. While the headquarters are in Norway, the cruise line operates from Ipswich, Suffolk in England. The cruise fleet now numbers five, all but one second-hand ships that have been heavily refitted to suit its British clientele.
The line attracts mostly British passengers up in age who like their foreign travel to entail the comforts, food and services of home. North American passengers who are Anglophiles will most fully enjoy these ships. Currency is the British pound.
Cruises are based in Dover and Southampton, and the in summer months fan out to the Baltic, Norway and its North Cape and Spitzbergen. Apart from the height of summer, the ship trades south to Iberia, the Canary Islands, and into the Mediterranean, with one annual trip sailing east as far as the Black Sea. Cruises last from seven to 28 days, though there is an occasional short sampler to nearby Channel ports. In January, the Black Watch leaves for an extended world cruise, 97 nights in 2009. The itinerary sees the ship making a westward circumnavigation from Southampton to the Panama Canal, South Pacific, New Zealand, Australia then across the southern Indian Ocean to South Africa and north back to England. A variety of shorter segments are also available.
Public rooms include a wide assortment of spaces to suit all moods of the day. The nautically themed forward observation lounge, a fine legacy of Royal Viking days, features piano music and great 270-degree views over the bow. Other facilities include a clubby smoking room with a Black Watch tartan carpet, piano lounge, card room, library, a proper cinema and shops. Entertainment has a British cast and the routine shows fill the evenings. Those who don't care about entertainment make their own with after-dinner drinks and conversation. Tea is taken seriously, as are deck quoits and carpet boules. Some guests book specifically for the clay-modeling class, and such old-world cruise staples as shuffleboard, line dancing and bingo still prove popular. Deck space is generous, and the ship has many nooks for reading and relaxing. Two pools, three whirlpools, a paddle-tennis court and a netted area for golfers add to the fun. The gym and sauna have floor-to-ceiling windows, hardwood floors and abundant greenery.
Two dining rooms have fixed seating for dinner in two traditional sittings. The Glentanar is the main venue and the smaller adjacent Orchid Room is generally reserved for the top cabin categories. Both rooms have buffet selections for breakfast and lunch in addition to menus and waiter service. The Garden Cafe serves informal meals including dress-down dinners with a theme such as French, Indian and East Asian. The food caters to middle income British tastes that runs to roasts, chicken, fish, very good desserts and a wonderful cheese and biscuit selection. Service is mostly by Filipino wait staff.
Of the 431 cabins, 383 are outsides, 67 come with balconies and 38 are sold as singles. All provide TVs, phones, radios, good stowage in tinny metal drawers, and baths of adequate size. The room service menu is limited, typical for a middle-income British ship. Among the 18 cabin categories are four single and four suite grades. Penthouse suites have sitting areas, dressing tables, minibars, tubs, verandas and 24-hour butler service. Many cabins accommodate a third or fourth guest, but unfortunately, most staterooms have twin beds in fixed position, which precludes conversion to queens.
This fine, traditional ship is an ideal choice for mature travelers interested in longer cruises with long days in port, interesting, well-run shore excursions and a smorgasbord of activities. Americans should be prepared for a thoroughly British atmosphere. The smaller ships of P&O Cruises are the closest competition.
