The coastal ship Hebridean Princess was rebuilt in 1989 from a rugged 600-passenger Scottish ferry into a posh floating country house catering to 49 mostly British passengers. Two to four North American couples is about the norm on any one cruise. This superb 235-ft, 2,112-ton ship has British officers and a European crew of 38 operating 4- to 8-day cruises mostly from Oban, on the West Coast of Scotland, with the Inner and Outer Hebrides her principal destinations, plus a trip or two across to Norway.
The Hebridean Princess traces its heritage to 1964 and the MacBrayne ferry Columba, carrying vehicles and passengers amongst the Western Isles of Scotland. The rebuilding extended the superstructure and pretty much gutted the interior to create something quite special. At one time, passengers could bring there cars aboard to use on excursions but this no longer happens as the ship often anchors for the night rather than tying up at a dock. The larger running mate, the 80-passenger Hebridean Spirit, joined her sister in 2001, providing farther-reaching itineraries in northern Europe, the Mediterranean and east of Suez, but with a similar country-house-hotel atmosphere.
Titled lords and ladies, retired ambassadors and military officers, and captains of industry and scrap metal merchants are likely to make up the passenger list. In the summer of 2006, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth 2 chartered the ship for a week to celebrate her 80th birthday. North Americans are few, but being an Anglophile helps to fit into this mannered society. Gratuities are included in the sky-high fares.
Most cruises explore the West Coast of Scotland, with the Inner and Outer Hebrides principal destinations. Trips across the North Sea to Norway are an annual staple, although in open waters, this is not a good sea boat. Cruises down the English coast occur at the start or the end of the season, to position the ship at Great Yarmouth for the winter overhaul. A guide accompanies all cruises, and excursions include visits to stately homes, country gardens, fishing villages, and remote, rugged islands. Excursions, entrance fees and gratuities are included. For the repeaters, averaging 50%, the ship and the social life aboard hold more importance than the ports. The season operates from early March through early November, and passengers should come prepared for chilly Scottish mists and uncertain weather at any time of year. The ship anchors or ties up at night in sheltered waters, except occasionally if heading to outer islands or crossing wide expanses of water.
The cozy public rooms offer a variety of settings for so small a ship and have the feeling of a genteel country inn. This is especially true in the forward Tiree observation lounge with its comfy upholstered furniture and rustic brick and timber fireplace. It is the gathering spot before dinner and for after-dinner drinks and occasional entertainment. But socializing is the main activity. A small bar is off to one side, and the library has leather and tartan-upholstered seating. Two other lounges offer afternoon tea and cigar smoking in wicker-furnished surroundings. The restaurant features Scottish fare with entrees such as fresh salmon, Aberdeen Angus beef and rack of Grampian lamb, and operates like a hotel dining room instead of having strangers share tables. Singles are seated with officers, usually at adjoining tables. Presentation and service are top-notch, and breakfast and lunch are a la carte or buffet-style. Some evenings are formal, others jacket and tie, and on warm nights, passengers gather on deck for champagne and canapes. Drinks and wines are included. The atmosphere is very social and most mannered, though quiet types will also find their retreats, and need not be part of the scene. There is little planned entertainment and no gambling aboard. A portion of the former vehicle deck houses watersports and exercise equipment, fishing tackle and bicycles, the use of which is free of charge. Aft on the top deck, wind breaks partition the space as well as providing protection from occasionally strong gusts.
The 30 cabins are individually designed and furnished, but all show stylish frills and have windows that open. Because of the individuality, the brochure includes detailed descriptions and helpful photographs to assist in making a choice. They are individually named after Scottish isles, lochs, sounds and castles. Dressing tables, TVs, minibars, tea makers, irons and ironing boards, trouser presses, hair dryers, and ample stowage are among the impressively extensive standard amenities. There are 11 cabins, both inside and out, that are dedicated to singles, and two of these on the lowest deck share a bath. The better staterooms are as plush as any afloat. The ship is not air-conditioned, but in these northerly waters, this is seldom a problem.
Accommodating so few passengers, and with such a high level of service and attention to detail, the ship not surprisingly charges among the highest fares afloat. Even so, the Hebridean Princess is a one-of-a-kind treasure appealing to the very well-heeled, many of whom return year after year. It is essential than North Americans considering this ship be ardent Anglophiles.
